在年轻的厨师去意大利的第一次旅行中，我在博洛尼亚西南山的小镇萨维尼奥（Savigno）吃了晚餐。该镇以著名的白色松露是在11月寒冷的晚上出现的特色成分，但它是意大利面，一只馄饨漂浮在一碗Brodo中，给人留下了持久的印象。当我切入其中时，它充满了菠菜，意大利乳清干酪和整个蛋黄。那一刻，我决定尽可能多地了解面食。多年来，我做到了这一点，在我在加利福尼亚伯克利的Chez Panisse任职期间和奥克兰的Oliveto期间经常回到意大利。当我在2003年开设旧金山餐厅Quince时，我知道手工制作的意大利面，包括受Savigno早期叮咬启发的馄饨，这将是菜单的重要组成部分。

Though there is a mystique surrounding the making of fresh ravioli, it’s not difficult to do, and the payoff—your own customized filling, the tender pasta, and even the slight irregularity of the shapes that broadcast that it’s handmade—is well worth the effort.

幻灯片：填充面食食谱

制作面团

Fresh pasta dough requires minimal ingredients, but seek the best. My fresh pasta is made primarily of two ingredients: flour and eggs. I use mostly double-zero (00) flour, a finely milled Italian flour that makes a light, tender pasta. But I also add a littleSemola Rimacinata，精美的粉红色面粉。它是用较硬的小麦制成的，它使面团更具结构，并防止煮熟时吸收过多的水，从而使其变得片状。如果找不到Semola Rimacinata，您可以代替相同数量的通用面粉。（请勿代替常规的Semolina，太粗糙。）

蛋黄和少许蛋清制成一个易于处理的嫩面团。尽管我喜欢仅鸡蛋的意大利面食，但对于馄饨，我也在面团中包括一个完整的鸡蛋。蛋清会使面团更具弹性，这在我将面团伸展到馅料上时尤其重要。深色的蛋黄会给面食带来金色的色调。

手工混合可以让您感觉面团。我学到的关于制作面食的最重要的教训之一是，这是一种不精确的艺术。由于鸡蛋大小或湿度的变化，您可能会使用或多或少的面粉。当您添加足够的面粉以制成柔软的面团时，手工混合可以轻松估算。将鸡蛋和面粉混合在一起后，揉捏面团以开发麸质很重要，使其结实而光滑。过度缝制几乎是不可能的，所以在更多而不是更少的一边犯错。揉捏后的休息有助于水化面粉，这也将有助于其滚动和塑造而不会破裂。

Make your filling while the dough rests. You’ll need your filling on hand when you roll out the pasta, so have it made ahead. I kept the fillings simple (though flavorful) in order to keep the focus here more on the making of the ravioli itself.

Rolling the dough

A pasta machine makes rolling easy. I recently catered a friend’s wedding reception. When I arrived at the site, I realized that I’d neglected to bring the proper pasta roller for the tortelloni I had planned to make. With little time to spare, I drove furiously up and down Highway 1 near Big Sur looking for a restaurant that had a pasta roller, but no luck. I ended up rolling out all the dough by hand with a rolling pin. The moral of this story: A意大利面机is not a necessity, but it makes the job go a lot faster.

When filling ravioli, eliminate air and seal well. While you can vary the shape and size of ravioli (and I encourage you to explore doing so), you always want to eliminate any excess air by gently pressing on the dough around the filling before sealing; otherwise the ravioli may balloon when cooked. A good seal, made by lightly moistening the dough and pressing it firmly closed, is also important for keeping the filling inside, which is where you want it to stay until that first delicious bite.

面食专业的滚动技巧

The best way to get good at making fresh pasta is to make it again and again. In the meantime, here are some tips to guarantee success:

• 清除您的工作表面，因此只有您，意大利面机和面团。您希望有足够的空间将面团推出而不会感到局促。
• Sprinkle the work surface with flour so that the dough doesn’t stick, and have all the tools and ingredients you need nearby.
• Don’t tug or pull on the pasta as it goes through the machine. Let the rollers do the work.
• If the sheet becomes unwieldy, cut it and continue running each piece through the machine.
• Don’t worry about rolling the dough to a specific dimension. Ravioli is an improvisational art, so work with what you have.
• When it’s time to fill, lightly mist the sheet with a spray bottle, if you have one. If not, brush it lightly with a damp pastry brush, being careful not to get it too wet.

Filling the pasta

You can cook the ravioli right away or cover and refrigerate for up to a day. You can also freeze them until rock hard on the tray, then transfer to zip-top bags, and freeze for up to a month.

烹饪馄饨

准备食用后，将一锅盐水煮沸。将馄饨（新鲜或冷冻）轻轻滑入水中，煮3至5分钟。用一个撇渣器to remove the ravioli from the water as draining them in a colander can damage them. Serve with a simple butter sauce to let the flavor of the filling come though. Garnish with parsley, cheese, or chopped nuts, if you like.