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杂志

Gratifying Gratins

December 2019/January 2020 Issue
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兴奋剂有一些特别之处。食用一顿饭变成盛宴。Gratin的豪华方面使其成为娱乐的理想选择。以我的经验,当客人看到烤箱里出现兴奋剂时,他们总是充满期待。

The history of this classic dish is long. The name gratin comes from the French word格拉蒂, meaning “scraped.” This was originally a reference to the thin, tasty crust formed at the bottom of a pot or pan that could be scraped up and eaten. Nowadays, the term is used for baked dishes that have a golden crust on their surface, an effect often created by sprinkling grated cheese and breadcrumbs on top and broiling after baking. Key to a gratin’s charm is the combination of textures that it offers: the melting, tender center, often enriched with cream or cheese, contrasting with that appealing crisp crust, created as a protective layer as it bubbles away in the oven.

甜蜜的POTATP GRATIN法国美食的最著名的例子是土豆la dauphinois,这是多芬地区的丰富而奶油的土豆菜。虽然有些Dauphinois的食谱要求鸡蛋或奶酪(或确实既鸡蛋和奶酪)。法国省烹饪opted simply for cream, observing: “And if it seems to the thriftily-minded, outrageously extravagant to use half a pint of cream to one pound of potatoes, I can only say that to me it seems a more satisfactory way of enjoying cream than pouring it over tinned peaches or chocolate mousse.” Another fine example of a potato gratin dish is Sweden’s Jansson’s Temptation. The source of the appealing name remains a mystery, incidentally, as no one knows who Jansson was. This much-loved classic of Swedish cuisine is traditionally served as a main course rather than as an accompaniment. Made from finely chopped potatoes, it’s a simple, homely meal flavored with fried onions and chopped cured anchovies or herring, which, when cooked, becomes far more than the sum of its parts, truly as irresistible as its name implies. And that’s just the thing about gratins. They are at the same time extravagant and homey, decadent and comforting.

甜菜山羊奶酪

尽管这两种经典都要求土豆,但葡萄蛋白实际上是一种多功能的砂锅,可以用各种成分制成。正如这些食谱所证明的那样beets,地瓜,的确是全部根茎类蔬菜借助疗养院治疗,他们做得很好。较轻的纹理蔬菜,例如比利时的饮食,茴香或韭菜,也可以很好地工作。

Making a gratin involves a certain amount of preparation, especially if the peeling and slicing of the vegetables are done by hand. Bear in mind that this is a leisurely process and is best treated as an opportunity to slow down your day. To ensure a pleasing finished texture, it’s important that the main element is cooked through until tender. Some gratin recipes, therefore, involve a preliminary stage where this element—such as a root vegetable—is blanched or boiled. The liquid element of the dish can be as simple as heavy cream or a more time-consuming roux-based sauce. However, once the gratin has been assembled, it can be put in the oven and left alone to cook, allowing you ample time to get on with the rest of the meal or simply await your gratin while you relax by a fire.

三奶酪根蔬菜

One last bonus of gratins, especially for entertaining: they are the ultimate make-ahead dishes. They can be assembled ahead and refrigerated overnight before baking on the day, or they can be baked ahead and then reheated in the oven before the meal. If you’re looking for the perfect accompaniment to a holiday roast, look no further than one of these gratins.

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  • SSJJSSWW |11/15/2021

    From Oct/Nov 2021 magazine, I made the brown butter fennel gratin; it was a disaster. I am now comparing to other gratins on your website. 1st-others specify # of fennel & give total weight needed; magazine recipe gave only number. 2nd - No specification of slicing except for onions - 1/2" slices so did 1/2 " slices of all vegetables. 3rd - End quality didn't fit in 2 qt dish; overflowed a 3 qt dish! Not enough cheese, cream, or panko. Cooked for more than 1 hour & still underdone. Before you add to your website, please work on instructions.

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