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烹饪假期

For the price of a trip to Toledo, you can spend a week in France, exploring markets and cooking for friends and family

精心烹饪Issue 28
照片:本·芬克
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当我去度假时,尤其是去另一个国家时,我访问的第一个地方是我认为是最重要的文化网站 - 食品市场。无论是转角杂货店还是全幕露天市场,出售食物的地方都是我的动作。而且,当我很幸运地参观一个真正的“美食目的地”的地区(例如法国或意大利)时,看到神话般的,被杰出的食物或刚煮熟的食物就像去博物馆一样令人满意。但是,如果我要住在酒店,市场可能会遭受酷刑 - 所有的成分,也没有烹饪的地方。

Last summer I found a wonderful solution to the dilemma, a solution that not only gave me more of what I wanted from my vacation—the ability to cook all day and eat and drink all night—but a solution that was delivered at a really reasonable price. I rented a house in southern France for a week.

令人惊讶的是,我完全以便宜的价格做到了这一点,这是我负担得起任何种类的唯一途径。首先,我在9月中旬前往淡季,但在法国南部,9月中旬仍然感觉像旺季 - 天气温暖,活跃的农产品市场,不是太多游客(除了对我来说,当然)。我从纽约到巴黎的法国航空的门票只有30天的购买额约550美元;同时预订前往俄亥俄州托莱多的机票的一名朋友,报价超过800美元。我能够通过我的美国旅行社租用一辆大型,快速的雷诺柴油轿车,一周约400美元(为了获得最佳交易,请在您出发之前租车)。

我发现的房子是所有的最佳价值,使旅行如此出色的部分是一座巨大,迷人,设备齐全的美容,设置在一个安静的泥土车道上,在一个工作的蔬菜农场中间。我一周支付了300美元,约占当地酒店房间的三分之一。

I found the great housing deal through the gîte rural system, a government-organized network of private rental properties all over France. Each place is different, but all must meet a certain standard of quality.



我和我的朋友们呆在屋子里,我真的能够过上的生活:每隔几天就能早起,以填充我们的篮子,充满奇妙的东西:肥胖的农场饲养的鸡,生奶奶酪,质朴的面包,每一个形状,从豌豆绿色和豌豆大小到大肉植物的橄榄,附近塞维内斯山脉的香肠和火腿,以及光泽,绷紧的皮肤水果和蔬菜的土墩。

营销大肆宣传后,我们回到房子里,首先小睡,然后将早晨的购买变成美味的食物,全部被当地葡萄酒洗净。

烹饪假期

有关在法国租用Gîte的更多信息,请联系:法国联邦。最整洁的方法是访问其网站www.gites-de-france.fr(用英语和法语)。您也可以写信给59号,圣拉萨雷(Rue St. Lazare),75009巴黎,法国,传真至011-33-1-42-81-28-53。您首先在特定的département或小区域订购目录(因此请自己获取一张好地图;网站有一个)。目录给出了每个物业的描述,图片和价格。选择后,请联系该地区的gîtesde France办公室。这些目录的价格约为8美元。

在您出发之前,找出哪些城镇有市场以及开放的日子。一些书提供了这些信息:帕特里夏·威尔斯(Patricia Wells)的《法国食品爱好者指南》(Workman,1987);取5,000个鸡蛋 - Paul&Jeanne Strang(1997年的Kyle Cathie Limited,由Trafalgar Square分发)的Paul&Jeanne Strang的5,000个鸡蛋 - 来自法国南部的市场和博览会(凯尔·凯西有限公司(Kyle Cathie Limited));普罗旺斯的市场,迪克森和鲁桑·朗(Dixon&Ruthanne Long)(Collins,1996)。

负担得起的挖掘是关键

我们选择的地方非常出色:经过翻新的12世纪小修道院,由巨大的蜂蜜色石灰石块制成。居住空间包括三间大卧室,一个客厅(可能是另一间卧室),一个宽敞的餐厅,配有一张长餐桌,一个有现代用具的大厨房以及一个很棒的石壁炉,两个浴室,两个浴室,当然还有教堂。在外面,有一个围墙的庭院,上面披着紫藤,两侧是巨大的无花果树。我们只有三个人,但我们可以很容易地适合八个​​人。我们的主人是一对有益,友好但谨慎的夫妇,住在附近,但为我们提供了我们想要的所有隐私。

为此,我们为一周支付了300美元,其中包括亚麻布和基本厨房设备。

并非所有的杂物住房都像我们一样风景如画,但它们至少是个人,古怪且非常有价值的。

A villa at the price of a Motel 6.

Strategic thinking makes the market manageable

您需要在市场开放时到达,以获取最好的东西并击败热量,更不用说获得停车场了。您需要在出发之前制定计划,因此请修复自己的咖啡馆,然后拿起笔和纸。虽然您需要,但您不能购买所有东西。

A good shopping strategy is to develop a generic menu- maybe a cold soup, a salad, a vegetable gratin, roast chicken, fruit tart. You can select the specific type of fruit or vegetable for each dish depending on which market vendor has the most seductive display.

现在查看您的厨房,看看您缺少哪些工具。大多数市场都有摊位出售厨房小工具 - 通常不是最好的质量,但便宜且足够好,可以在一周中使用。

旨在完成您的购物及时坐在市场广场上的咖啡馆,享受早晨的快车和羊角面包,并观看世界,请记住,您正在度假。

The first table you see might have some goodlooking melons, but around the corner may be the actual melon farmer herself, offering a taste of the sweetest Cavaillons for half the price of the first lot.

Some of the sellers at the markets are just that— sellers of other people’s produce, not all of it local or even French. Try to find the people who look like they’re the growers or the cheesemakers or the beekeepers. You’ll usually see a sign that says “producteur” (producer).

设置闹钟 - 认真的购物者会尽早移动。
Look around before you start buying.

And plan your route so that you buy the more perishable items last: dairy, meat, and certainly fish. Some fishmongers will give you a little bag of ice, but on a hot day, it won’t last long.

The hubbub and crowds of a bustling market can be a bit intimidating, but if you learn a few basic skills, you can assert yourself in a way that will get you good service— and maybe even a sample tasting. Perhaps the most important point is that at most market stalls, you don’t serve yourself. You just tell the vendor how much of what you want. Try to learn the names of the foods you’re likely to buy (they’ll all be labeled, of course). And if you’re worried about your rusty French, try body language. The French are great gesticulators, so communication is possible with only a few words and a friendly smile.

学习一些协议并保持凉爽。

如果你不知道公制,至少李尔王n that 500g is about 1 pound, and then work up or down from there. And don’t take your 200g of shallots and then reach into your bag for your traveller’s checks. Get yourself a walletful of small bills and coins before you start shopping.

大型市场可以是花,古董亚麻,橄榄油和薰衣草肥皂,厨房桌子上的时髦油布,当然还有篮子的好来源。

掌握指标和金钱。
除了食物以外,要寻找很酷的东西。

For just a little shopping, a string bag is brilliant, since it weighs nothing and expands to fit your purchases. For more stuff, a backpack is nice; it leaves your hands free and can support heavier items (though it doesn’t look very “local”). If you’re going to be around for a week or so, get a shopping trolley, one of those vertical grocery baskets on wheels. It may make you feel like the little old lady in apartment 3B, but you can really pile in the stuff without breaking your back, and using a trolley leaves your hands free to point, taste, and pay.


Relaxed menus ensure enjoyable evenings

GITH,M。和MME的所有者。Audema,与作者和精美的烹饪艺术总监史蒂夫·亨特(Steve Hunter)一起喝了一些当地葡萄酒。

烤鸡和柠檬和大蒜,迷迭香烤土豆,以及茄子,西葫芦和西红柿。
A no-cook dessert of cheese and grapes.

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