纸上的鱼与蒸汽速度相结合。用蔬菜和调味料封装在一个小空间中的每片鱼都会用自己的酱汁创造菜。这是烹饪的，是获得最大风味的好方法，几乎​​没有添加脂肪。我已经使用了这种技术，也称为烘烤enpapillote(pronounced ahn PAH-pee-YOHT), both at home and in restaurant kitchens, and I find it’s as useful for serving single portions as it is for dinner for ten.

用于羊皮纸烘烤的鱼类的理想厚度在1/2至3/4英寸之间。这种尺寸的鱼通常会在6到8分钟内煮熟，恰到好处获得金黄色的纸。像修士，lingcod和狼队这样的茂密鱼应切成薄，以便在相同的时间内烹饪。

Additions to the package can range from a small quantity of aromatic flavorings to a sauce and vegetable topping—even cooked grains. Vegetables cooked in parchment must be cut in small pieces so that they’re done in the short time it takes to cook fish fillets. Dense vegetables like carrots and celery should be cut into fine julienne; quicker-cooking varieties (summer squash, mushrooms, and onions, for instance) can be cut up to 1/4 inch thick. Vegetables not suited to small slices, like asparagus, may need to be blanched.

Rolls of baking parchment are sold in cookware shops and some supermarkets, but they tend to be expensive. Much less expensive, but perhaps more difficult to obtain, are the large sheets of silicone-treated paper sold as baking pan liners in restaurant-supply and paper-supply houses. At about 16×24 inches, these sheets are sized to fit a commercial baker’s sheet pan. A typical box of 1000 sheets, many years’ supply for the home cook, sells for about $35 in my area, which works out to less than 2 cents per serving. You also might ask a local bakery if they’ll sell from their supply. If not, get a group of cooks to go in on a box or divide a package among friends who bake.

如何将鱼包裹在纸上。从折叠纸的左下角开始，以一两英寸的折叠，以一定角度形成新的折叠边缘。折痕新折。

Hold down the middle of the fold as you lift the corner toward the center. Continue around the package.

With about six folds, you’ll create a half oval. The final twist ensures the package will hold together.

Wrapping fish in parchment for baking isn’t quite as exacting a process as Japanese decorative paper folding, but careful folding can make the difference between a tight package and one that leaks all over the baking sheet. Even with the most careful folding, the packages are not absolutely sealed, but they’re tight enough to keep in most of the moisture and aroma of the food. Traditional directions for folding parchment call for cutting the paper into a heart shape, but a rectangle or square will do the job nicely.

These recipes are designed to bake in a 450°F oven, hot enough to cook as quickly as possible without scorching the paper. Arrange the packages on a baking sheet with a rim to catch juices that might escape. If possible, allow a little space between the packages for the heat to reach all the fish evenly. However, a slight overlap of the paper edges is fine.

Except in the most formal situations, part of the appeal of fish en papillote is cutting open the paper at the table. The simplest way is to peel back the top and eat the fish straight from the paper. Sharp-pointed steak knives make the job easier. If you don’t want to serve the fish in the paper, slit the edge of the package opposite the creases and slide the contents onto a plate. (The salmon and wild rice dish is an exception: it doesn’t slide out easily. If you don’t want to eat it from the paper, you’ll have to transfer it carefully to a plate.)