Less is better when you’re whipping egg whites, according to Carole Walter. Many recipes don’t clarify what degree of stiffness is needed, depending on how they’re to be used. The key points are whether the whites contain sugar, and when it’s added. She explains the science behind their rise – and fall – and how to control the conditions, as well as the proper equipment to use. She identifies four stages of beaten whites, offers tips on salvaging overbeaten messes, and shows how to fold them into the rest of your ingredients. Recipes include Lemon Meringue Pie, of course, and Salmon Souffle.