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如何

Fall’s Overlooked Vegetables

Discover how tempting these vegetables can be when you choose the right cooking method

精心烹饪Issue 67
照片:Scott Phillips
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As a regular farmers’ market shopper, I’m always disheartened to see the thinning of the crowds in late fall. While I don’t miss all that elbowing and shoving to get to the tomatoes and corn, I wouldn’t mind seeing a bit more enthusiasm for those first turnips, Brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, and parsnips. I suppose that many home cooks overlook these classic fall vegetables simply because they don’t recognize their delicious potential, or perhaps because they just don’t know what to do with them.

事实是,我可以理解为什么有些人对某些秋天的蔬菜挂断了挂断。他们通常以不廉价的方式制作,以一种烹饪的方式烹制,从而带出了他们吸引力较小的属性或以掩盖其风味的调味料窒息。我采用相反的方法,选择烹饪方法和调味料,突出蔬菜的自然风味。我的目的是使准备工作变得简单,以便蔬菜可以自言自语。相信我。一旦您在右边尝试食谱后,您就不禁为这些蔬菜而倒下。

Turnips

萝卜是所有秋天蔬菜中最不受欢迎的萝卜之一,这太糟糕了,因为它们具有复杂而有趣的风味。在前面,他们坚强而胡椒,但也有甜蜜的色彩。当他们在炖菜和炖肉中煮熟时,他们的开放颗粒质地在吸收口味方面做得非常出色。当我做土豆时,我将萝卜煮熟:我将它们切成楔形物,然后与鸡肉或猪肉一起烤。或者我将它们蒸直到用土豆变软,然后用一点奶油和黄油捣碎,然后用新鲜的细香葱或欧芹折叠。萝卜的良好风味配对包括苹果,培根,鼠尾草,芥末酱以及茴香或香菜等香料 - 所有这些都有助于平衡萝卜的果断味道。

Cider-Glazed Turnips & Apples with Sage & Bacon.

Parsnips

欧洲防风草的通用性非常多。像萝卜一样,它们搭配土豆泥捣碎,用丝滑酱或用猪肉烤。烹饪欧洲防风草的最简单方法之一是将它们切成薄的棍子,用橄榄油,盐和胡椒粉折腾,然后烤直至甜和焦糖。他们可以自己制作出色的汤汤,无论是自己还是在西兰花,花椰菜或南瓜汤中作为微妙的“神秘成分”。如果可能的话,购买中小型欧洲防风草案,因为它们的形状往往更均匀,并且会更均匀地烹饪。较大的欧洲防风草具有坚硬的核心,应在烹饪前切掉。我喜欢将欧洲防风草与罗斯玛丽,百里香,温暖的香料和褐色黄油搭配。

与焦糖洋葱和酸奶油的开发式煎饼。

布鲁塞尔芽菜

球芽甘蓝生长大的茎,和一些马rkets carry them in this impressive form. If you encounter them, look for the stalk with the smallest sprouts, which will be sweeter. Cooked properly, Brussels sprouts have a pleasantly assertive, nutty, cabbagy flavor. But they’re not forgiving, and when overcooked they become stinky and limp. One delicious preparation is to slice them and sauté them with browned butter and pecans. I also like to braise halved sprouts in stock with a bit of butter until tender and then reduce the liquid to a glaze at the end; then I toss with lemon juice and fresh thyme for a lovely side dish. Other good pairings for Brussels sprouts are bacon or pancetta, walnuts, chestnuts, mustard, sage, and other hardy herbs.

Creamy Brussels Sprout Gratin.

Sweet potatoes

地瓜有几种品种,有些奶油和甜味,而其他则更少,但是我可以互换使用它们。许多市场将红薯标记为山药,但真正的山药非常淀粉,不那么甜,块茎完全不同。地瓜的泥土味使它们成为糖果,汤和馅饼的天然。要快速配菜,将红薯楔子扔进橄榄油并烤;他们煮的速度比白土豆快。或者只需在皮肤上烘烤地瓜,然后与黄油或酸奶油一起食用。我喜欢添加一丝枫糖浆,糖蜜或红糖,以突出蔬菜的甜味。或者,我将这种天然甜味作为对立面来扮演更强的口味,例如姜,辣椒和石灰,茴香和香菜等香料,以及香菜和百里香等草药。

两次烤红薯和辣椒辣椒。

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