I grew up on my mother’s gnocchi, and I remember not only their incomparable lightness, but the sight of her shaping them one by one in our kitchen. By the time she had finished, the whole kneading board was covered with plump, ridge-backed dumplings ready to be cooked in boiling water, and then tossed in a long-simmering ragù or warmed through and browned with a little Parmesan in the oven. It was easy to eat too many, and often I did.

My mother’s method was governed not by a recipe, but by her good instincts and feel for the dough. With a bit of practice, you too can develop a feel for gnocchi. A starchy potato, a short knead, and a little practice flicking small nuggets of dough off the tines of a dinner fork will give you light gnocchi that are great with all kinds of sauces, from a hearty ragù to a deliciously simple sauce of brown butter and sage with a dusting of Parmesan.

gnocchi有多种形式

因为我母亲的家人来自威尼托，所以我们总是吃土豆面疙瘩, which are typical of the region; that’s the kind I’m making here.

gnocchi（发音为nyoh-kee）是一个通用术语，描述了煮沸，烘烤或炸饺子。您可能会遇到整个意大利整个版本的其他版本：炸和发酵的面团，用野生蔬菜和意大利乳清干酪制成的肉丸形饺子，或者用富含黄油和奶酪的Semolina制成的稀饭，切成圆盘，将。gnocchi也以区域名称命名。（在坎帕尼亚，他们以令人不安的名字走strenkulapreti- 牧师。）

高淀粉烘焙土豆制造最轻的面团

Despite the differences, all gnocchi are composed of a principal flavor ingredient (in this case, mashed potatoes), a binder (here I’m using wheat flour), and a simple seasoning (these are tossed in browned sage butter right before serving) to support and enhance the principal ingredient.

烘烤土豆生产最轻的面gno。大土豆干,毛茸茸的,淀粉类when cooked produce the lightest dough. I’ve had good results with russets, also known as Idahoes. Yellow Finns, slightly lower in starch, work well, too. Avoid low-starch, “waxy” potatoes—they turn especially gluey when added to flour, producing leaden gnocchi.

将土豆煮在夹克中，将它们排在漏勺中，然后让它们在自己的蒸汽中干燥，使您有蓬松的淀粉质土豆，进而可以帮助您获得最轻，最干燥，最嫩的面团。我已经尝试烤土豆作为gnocchi，但是再次让煮熟的土豆自行干燥，使蓬松的淀粉泥土豆泥更容易掺入面粉中，从而使您的效果更轻。

使用最小的揉捏和足够的面粉来粘合面团

With the first knead, you’ll be mixing the dough until blended. The mass should feel slightly firm, a little sticky, and malleable. Here it’s important not to knead the dough too much, because kneading strengthens the gluten in the flour, producing tough gnocchi.

将面粉混合到面团面团中至关重要的面粉至关重要 - 您需要跨越不足和足够的面粉之间的界限。跟随食谱，直到您对面团有很好的感觉为止。它应该感觉柔软，柔韧和略带粘性。添加过多的面粉使卷烟沉重。添加太少意味着它们会散落在沸腾的锅中。

With cutting and shaping, the dough develops elasticity.当您四分之一并将其滚成类似绳索的长度时，面团变得足够牢固，可以使表面的特征评分，并让饺子将其形状保持在沸水中。在这一点上，可以将工作表面，您的手和面团放置在工作表面上是很好的。任何粘在gnocchi上的面粉都会溶解在沸水中，而不是掺入面团中。

将饺子滚动在晚餐叉的尖端上，使gnocchi具有特征形状。正如您在照片中看到的那样，叉子将标记脊，并用手指转动会导致背部的小凹痕。这个得分和转弯不仅是为了外观。您可以品尝到的山脊，山谷和空腔都将酱汁捕获，这有助于增加风味并产生令人愉悦的质地。

Brown sage butter is a simple, satisfying sauce.To makeBurro Nocciola，正如意大利语（“棕色黄油”）中所熟知的那样，您将整个黄油呈棕色琥珀色，并带有较深的斑点略带焦糖黄油。会有一点点烟，但是如果您有很多黑烟，您就走得太远了。鼠尾草将非常黑，脆，并用面食作为酱汁的一部分。