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杂志

Roast with the Most

第三代屠夫知道准备一两件事,以准备简单但令人印象深刻的风味烤烤肉。她的秘密?干牛肉。

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YOU COULD SAY my father steered me to join the family’s business, Flannery Beef, but I’ll admit that I wasn’t expecting to stay long. At first, he pegged me with an appropriate task for someone in her early 20s (“Can you help me with the website?”), but he simultaneously handed me a knife—and I haven’t put it down since.

有时候,这是一个疯狂的厨师准备牛肉及其米其林星级菜单。其他日子,我正在努力确保家庭厨师有足够的时间在烧烤架上放置或填充冰箱。对于一项大多数人认为只是等待一个月的工作来说,这是非常快的节奏,让一堆牛肉变老。没有两天是一样的,它需要我从父亲(和他的父亲)那里学到的一定程度的关注和质量。我很幸运能继续进行这项荣誉的交易。

有时,需要训练有素的肉眼来确保您为度假桌提供最佳的牛肉,我很高兴能够分享一些技巧和外卖,以充分利用您的烤肉。

从哪里开始?提前计划,了解您的理想部分,并注意牛肉等级。后者真的很重要吗?是的,因为Prime和Prime选择确实有所不同。Prime牛肉是最高的,您可以购买的最佳牛肉,这是整个大理石花纹(肌内脂肪)的表现。假期肯定是黄金时段。

我选择什么削减,如何烤?

骨头和站立?绑起来并桁架?为人群选择合适的烤肉不应该令人生畏,但了解差异很重要。这是桌子中心的前三名竞争者。

RIB ROAST

A classic and popular choice for special occasions, the prime rib roast is elegant and impressive. With a flair for the dramatic, a full rib roast has seven bones, though you can request fewer if you are feeding a smaller crowd. A good rule of thumb for determining portion sizes is to assume 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 lb. (starting weight) per person. That will account for the weight of the bones and the expected shrink loss during cooking. The rib muscle lies between the chuck (the neck of the animal) and the loin (lower back). If serving a smaller roast (less than four ribs), the characteristics of the roast will be slightly different based on where the final cut falls between the two—you could end up with more rib cap (read: fat and flavor) or a meatier piece with less fatty chew. Either way, it’s hard to disappoint.

俱乐部烤

The New York strip is arguably the most popular of all premier cuts—and for good reason. The fat is evenly distributed along the outer edge and marbled throughout the meat, so every bite is as good as the last. Essentially one large never-ending New York strip, the club roast (shown below) is a winner for guests who tend to be fat-averse, but who appreciate something deeply flavored. In shape and presentation, it will look a little like a tenderloin roast but with a larger diameter. Like a tenderloin, it should be trussed before roasting to help retain its shape so that it is perfectly cooked from edge to edge. And no bone means less fuss, so you’ll reap uniform pieces upon carving.

里脊肉烤

顾名思义,这是您可以期望的最嫩的。肌肉坐落在动物的脊柱旁边,在动物一生中,真正缺乏运动是使其本质上如此柔软的原因。由于其苗条,这种烤肉受益于嬉戏的调味料和装饰,因此可以搅拌最好的贝纳尼斯(Béarnaise)或减少红酒。较小的直径可容纳娇小的尺寸,并在盘子上留出足够的空间,以供出色的侧面。作为主要三种烤肉中最小的烤肉,您不会看到超过4磅的里脊肉烤(约8份)。如果您要喂养一个较大的群体,则旨在获得2种相等尺寸的烤肉,例如2磅3磅。烤12份。烤的直径或厚度最终将决定其烹饪时间,而不是重量。冒险吗?里脊肉使图片完美的牛肉惠灵顿。

什么是干老化?

干衰老是一个经过精心控制的过程,在温度控制的环境中,牛肉原始人(整个肌肉群)在修剪并切成牛排或烤肉中的特定时间长度。

经过exposing the meat to air on all sides, dry aging allows the moisture within the meat to slowly evaporate over time, while natural enzymes slowly begin to break down the molecular bonds. It’s this combination of moisture loss and tenderization that improves the beef ’s flavor and texture. The longer it is dry-aged, the more pronounced and concentrated the flavor. Thirty to 35 days of aging is the most popular sweet spot, resulting in a slice that is deeply beefy, delicately nutty, and incredibly aromatic.

当涉及调味料时,更少的是更多。由于干衰老所赋予的固有特征,肉类几乎不需要腌料和摩擦的干预,因此您需要在调味料上锻炼约束。在烹饪之前,大量的犹太盐和大量的黑胡椒粉磨碎是干幼型的剪裁需求。对于假日桌,我们喜欢用新鲜的草药和天然j保持简单。

Pinpricks of marbling and fat benefit from the acidity of wine, but like seasonings, the wine shouldn’t overpower the nuances of the meat, so seek out a lighter-bodied bottle with subtle fruit. Pinot Noir or Italian reds like Barolo and other Nebbiolo varieties are excellent companions, as are California Cabernet, Bordeaux, and Spanish blends. One rule: The older the vintage, the better. Aged wine with aged steak is as sympatico as Champagne and caviar.

烧焦的时间

The ratio of fat to muscle is the key to navigating the best cooking method. Outer fat and marbling contribute to the final flavor and texture, so the most appropriate method depends on how you want that fat to melt. A rich cap of fat that crowns a rib roast, for instance, crisps up with a blast of high heat at first, then is set to render slowly for the remainder of cooking. By contrast, a leaner tenderloin can benefit from a reverse sear in which the meat is roasted first slowly at a lower temperature (250°F to 275°F) then finished on high heat (around 450°F) to achieve browned edges. The result is an evenly rosy interior from edge to edge with a well- caramelized crust all around.

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