What an embarrassment of riches a late-season farmstand offers—an alluring array of gorgeous vegetables begging to be purchased, taken home, and cooked. So, you buy a bagful or more. You sauté or steam some to make a few simple side dishes, you make a soup or two, and maybe you even roast several of them together. But a question I’m often asked is how to combine vegetables into something bigger—something that has more stature than a simple side dish, more heft than a minestrone, and more substance than a stir-fry—and with all the vegetables properly cooked. You’ll find one answer in main-dish vegetable stews, or ragoûts.

牢记

ragoût（发音为ra-goo）是法国人说的“炖菜”，但是根据我对这些蔬菜菜肴的经验，一旦您说stew一词，您的朋友就好奇地看着您，问：“但是肉在哪里？”另外，炖菜建议长时间烹饪，这里的食谱在一个小时或更短的时间内完成。因此，我喜欢Ragoût，对我而言，这仅意味着通过温和的烹饪团结一致的几个元素。

虽然ragoûts是即兴的菜肴，但您也不能完全使用厨房链接方法。当您发现自己想知道要在蔬菜rago图中包含什么时，这里有一些建议。

将自己限制为大约五种蔬菜，and definitely no more than seven. If there are too many elements, the dish will get muddled. Aim for a balance of flavors, textures, shapes, sizes, and colors, and cut the vegetables into reasonably sized, recognizable pieces, about one to two inches. When cut too large, they’ll take longer to cook, and when cut too small, they become indistinct.

选择同时季节性的蔬菜。这是考虑Ragoût组合时永远不会失败的指南。在夏季和初秋，尝试贝壳豆，绿豆，西葫芦或帕蒂彭南瓜和西红柿Farmhouse Ragoût。在秋天和初冬，尝试朝鲜蓟，土豆，葱和茴香，例如洋蓟ragot与葱和茴香; this one is good in the spring, too, when the first crop of artichokes comes in (at that time, you might use spring leeks in place of fall shallots and chervil instead of rosemary). Spring is also a great time to make a ragoût of peas, asparagus, carrots, and spinach. Use your local farmers’ market as a source of inspiration from season to season. As always, reach for the freshest vegetables you can find.

When using potatoes, opt for low-starch varieties.如果土豆是有机的，请保持皮肤以提供额外的颜色和营养价值。低淀粉土豆将比俄罗斯等较高的淀粉品种更好地保持炖肉。寻找小土豆，例如红色的幸福，奶油奶油或鱼种，根据其大小，只需要减半或四分之一（如果它们的大小与大型大理石的大小相同）。

其他淀粉成分，例如煮熟的鹰嘴豆或大型脂肪干的传家宝，例如Gigantes或Runner Beans，也可以为Ragoth提供了很好的补充。不过，我发现，确保它们保持形状并且不会变得糊状的最佳方法是分开烹饪并在烹饪结束的末端添加它们，从而为它们提供足够的时间与其他元素融合。煮熟的豆子的汤可以添加到rogoût中，以防其需要更多的液体。

很少有蔬菜对ragot来说是错误的，但是我认为有些工作不好。远离红色甜菜，因为它们将所有东西都变成红色。（另一方面，金甜菜都很好。）地瓜是如此淀粉，以至于它们倾向于在ragoth中获得味觉。

从洋葱味的基础上获得美味的开端

在烹饪ragoût时，请记住一些计划并在措施中思考。这样，蔬菜将以正确的程度煮熟，炖菜将具有风味。有关烹饪时间的指南，请参阅时机蔬菜以获取最佳质感。

Timing vegetables for best texture

烹饪装满蔬菜的炖锅可能很棘手。以下是将洋葱底部浅褐色后，将其添加到ragot的指南中。蔬菜按降序列出；在适当的情况下，将它们切成1到2英寸的零件。

First off, start with a reliable base:葱（葱，洋葱，葱，大蒜，韭菜或组合）用黄油或橄榄油炒。这也是时候添加诸如百里香，迷迭香或月桂叶之类的强壮草药（我稍后会拿到更精致的香料），以及一些香料，例如辣椒或红辣椒片。重要的是不要着急这个最初的风味建设步骤。给炒食材足够的时间与之混合并呈现一些颜色，您将获得更美味的rago -the奖励。

Once the onions are gently browned, add the longest-cooking vegetables,such as carrots (which generally take longer than anything else, by the way) and other root vegetables. Let them soften and color just a bit in the pan. Then, proceed with the next-to-longest cooking vegetables, and onward (the sequence for the Farmhouse Ragoût is a great way to get a sense of how to order things).

After the vegetables have started to soften, add some liquid. It can be vegetable stock, chicken broth, water, a little wine, or even the cooking liquid that you might have saved from other vegetables. If you’re using tomatoes, for instance, their juices generally provide enough liquid to enrich your ragoût. In these recipes, I’ve called for just enough liquid to simmer the vegetables. This is so that it combines with the vegetable juices and reduces into a flavorful broth as the ragoût cooks.

通过顺序分层蔬菜来制作简单的炖

在烹饪的最后几分钟，加入精致的绿色和草药。菠菜只需要一两分钟。在这一点上，我也喜欢添加香草，例如欧芹，切尔维尔或罗勒。有关最后一分钟的精加工的更多想法，请参阅《修饰》的增强风味，以增加风味。

Whichever vegetables you choose, a ragoût is something you’ll want to coddle and hover over, not just walk away from. No two will be the same—and I’ve never made one I didn’t like.

Finishing touches boost flavor and bring a ragoût together

When that lovely simmering pot of tender vegetables is done, often a finishing touch is just the thing to help unify and juke up flavors.

• Chopped parsley and garlic add color and flavor when stirred in or sprinkled on just before serving. Also known as a persillade, this chopped mixture can be varied by adding grated lemon zest, as I’ve done with the Artichoke Ragoût. Although parsley is the herb for which a persillade is named, you can also use fresh chervil, tarragon, dill, basil, or a mix.
• 果味橄榄油淋上毛茸茸的橄榄油，可以增加液体，使液体像甜黄油一样将液体乳化成酱汁。我喜欢在将rogagot倒入汤板之前搅拌，而橄榄油在每种菜肴上都特别毛毛雨。对于农舍Ragoût而言，用罗勒和橄榄油制成的泥可以很好地绕过这道菜。
• A squeeze of fresh lemon juice or a dash of your favorite vinegar will unify flavors and bring them to the fore. Add it just before serving, because as the acid sits with the vegetables, the colors begin to fade.