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烟熏三文鱼

Fine Cooking Issue 96
Photos: Scott Phillips
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烟熏鲑鱼是度假的最爱,在聚会和早餐中放纵。烟熏鲑鱼通常被错误地标记为Lox(未湿的鲑鱼)或Gravlax(未湿润和干燥的固化),烟熏鲑鱼实际上是新鲜的鲑鱼 - 耕种的大西洋鲑鱼(Salmo Salron)或五种野生太平洋鲑鱼(Chum),coho,pink,sockeye或chinook) - 用盐,糖和调味料固化,然后在低于80°F的温度下冷烟。与热吸烟不同的是,冷烟不会煮鱼,因此结果是我们期望烟熏鲑鱼的丝般柔软质地。

但是要购买哪个品牌?为了找出答案,我们在盲目的味觉测试中尝试了该国八个顶级邮购冷salmons。我们一直在寻找令人愉悦的烟熏味,而不是太咸的多汁熏制鲑鱼,我们很乐意在假期庆祝活动中服役。这里的四个适合账单。

布朗贸易公司Scotch-cured smoked Scottish salmon ($23 for 8 oz., sliced; $45 for 1 lb., sliced;Brownetrading.com) comes from farmed Atlantic salmon wet-cured with Scotch whisky and smoked over Maine fruitwoods. We found it a touch sweet, a touch salty, and nicely smoky. Its texture was very close to that of raw salmon, which was a plus for several tasters.

Russ & Daughters’Gaspe Nova ($30 per lb., sliced;russanddaughters.com) was incredibly smooth and rich, starting out with a salty bite but finishing with gentle smoke. This salmon originates in the Gaspe Bay of Quebec, Canada. It’s called Nova as shorthand for the traditional Nova Scotia nomenclature for smoked Atlantic salmon originating from fisheries in that area. Also wet-cured in brine, this style of smoked salmon would make a lovely canape topping or a lush partner for crackers, creme fraiche, and capers.

Tracklement’sOriginal Highland Smoked Salmon ($59 for 1-1/2 lb., unsliced;Tracklements.com) is made from fish from the Bay of Fundy, near Nova Scotia. Tasters noted its oily appearance, but after the salmon’s cure in brown sugar and salt and hardwood-smoking, the nuanced balance of sweetness, salt, and smoke was perfect, and the texture was luscious and tender. To preserve quality and freshness, Tracklement’s doesn’t slice its salmon for you, so be ready with a sharp knife to carve the thinnest possible slices.

塔克野生阿拉斯加海鲜was our favorite wild Pacific salmon ($61 for 1-1/2 lb., sliced;Takustore.com). The intense red coloring of the sockeye salmon surprised some tasters, but its fresh flavor won us over. Lightly smoky and mild in flavor, the naturally dense fish had a less delicate texture than farmed varieties, but we felt good knowing we were enjoying a truly wild product.

White Smoked Salmon

为了真正的享受,请寻找稀有(绝对美味)淡淡的淡淡的白色熏制鲑鱼。这些鱼类与粉红色的鲑鱼一样,这些鱼类生活在波罗的海,饮食中没有虾或磷虾,它们将其粉红色的色调借给食用它们的鱼。Cap’n Mike’s Holy SmokeNorthwest-style white salmon lox ($54.95 per lb., sliced; 707-585-2000) is a great product, even if it is misleadingly called lox.Petrossian(800-828-9241) andNantucket Wild Gourmet & Smokehouse(508-945-2700) also carry white smoked salmon from time to time, so call to check for availability. It’s well worth the effort.

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