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如何

选择多汁甜点的最成熟的水果

使用触摸,气味和视线选择最好的石果,然后让它出演经典的美国甜点

精心烹饪Issue 34
Photos: Mark Ferri
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我花了很多时间在杂货店和市场s buying food for my job and for my own cooking at home. In the summertime, regardless of what’s on my shopping list, I’m always lured to the peaches, plums, apricots, and nectarines by their intoxicating fragrance. When stone fruit are perfectly ripe, they just beg to be scooped up and devoured—or turned into classic summer desserts—but to tell if the fruit is really ripe, I need to really get involved with the fruit. With visions of shortcakes and cobblers and upside-down cakes in my head, I begin to touch the peaches and sniff the apricots. I do get plenty of funny looks from other shoppers, but they usually wind up asking me to help them choose some ripe fruit. It’s really very easy.

利用您的感官。I take the threefold approach to selecting all my fruit. First I smell it. Fragrance is the primary indicator of ripeness. If it doesn’t smell like a peach or a plum, I move on. Next I hold the fruit in my hand and press it gently on its shoulders; the fruit should give slightly. Finally I give the piece a “once-over,” looking for well-colored, smooth-skinned fruit without bruises or blemishes.

越过熟水果。Don’t be fooled into thinking that cooking will improve the taste of fruit that isn’t quite ripe. Baked fruit is a concentrated version of its fresh counterpart, so if it isn’t sweet and delicious when fresh, don’t expect much once it’s been baked. The fruit’s natural sweetness and flavors must be developed—stone fruit may soften in texture after they’re picked from the tree, but they never really become sweeter (seeChoosing Fruit That’s Truly Ripe)。我不购买至少没有香水的石果,也不会烘烤任何我不会吃新鲜的东西。我尝试选择我可以在市场上可以使用的最高水果,并在同一天使用它。

But if slightly underripe fruit is your only option, you can let the fruit rest on your countertop for a day or two to soften. Just be careful not to let them become overripe. Apricots are especially perishable; there’s a very small window of time between just-ripe and overripe apricots. Once stone fruit are ripe, you can store them in the refrigerator (which slows the ripening process) if you need to buy yourself some time.

Fresh fruit from the freezer

还有一些额外的成熟桃子吗?坑并切成大块(不要去剥去),将它们扔进食品加工机中,用每桃子汤匙糖和泥中将其扔。将混合物冻结在冰立托盘中。当您想要一个简单,清爽的甜点时,在食品加工机中每份约四个立方体迅速脉动,然后将其oop放入碗中。

我喜欢简单的口味和夏季石果的准备。
成熟的夏季桃子,李子,杏子和油桃充满风味,因此不需要很多点缀。加强大自然已经提供的东西所需的全部味道和甜味。例如,我喜欢制作(未煮过的)切成薄片的李子和杏子,只需淡淡的橙色和薄荷,以使其令人耳目一新,以欣赏到轻质的黄油脆饼。我让水果混合物静置一个小时左右,让所有口味混合。您只需从切成薄片的石果菜中制作出最简单的夏季甜点,这些甜点被允许在自己的果汁中浸泡一小段时间。然而,晚餐前仅切一个或两个小时,切成薄片并将其混合在一起;肉会再变得糊状了。

当果实烘烤果实时,这种融合石果汁的可爱味道会加剧,这是美味的夏季鞋匠的秘诀。在一个混合桃子,杏子和李子一起杏仁顶的补鞋匠提供复杂的口味,但并不会用分散注意力的成分压倒水果。毫无疑问,连鞋匠的浇头,一个酥饼,或淡淡的香料蛋糕,如食谱颠倒的杏蛋糕,为吸收水果的多汁而提供了理想的基础,并为水果的甜味提供了略带咸味的对比。展示这些水果的最美丽,最美味的方法之一就是将它们烘烤成乡村法式烧饼. Again, I pair just a little bit of lemon with plums to enhance, but not disguise, their flavor. Letting the fruit star in these simple preparations is the whole idea.

Peel not

我从不去皮我的石果。我认为最终结果不需要艰苦,耗时的剥离过程。实际上,我喜欢将皮肤保留在水果上:它为组成和烤甜点增添了更深,更丰富的颜色,并有助于保留水果的营养含量。然而,桃子和油桃的更坚硬的皮肤确实需要注意。在进行食谱之前,我在水果周围几次用叉子的锋利尖齿轻轻刺皮。这种方法在烘烤过程中破坏了纤维的皮肤,但可以保持味道完整而不瘀伤肉。

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