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硬皮法国面包卷

这些令人印象深刻的卷比您想象的要易于制作,并且可以提前两个星期

精心烹饪Issue 48
照片:斯科特·菲利普斯(Scott Phillips)
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作为一名烹饪老师,我对那些被误解面纱笼罩的技术和食谱的神秘面纱感到满意。我的法国面包卷are a perfect example of something that even good cooks expect to get only from a restaurant kitchen or from a fine bakery. In reality, these rolls are not only easy to make at home, but they’re also much richer in flavor and texture than many rolls bought from a bakery.

大多数人认为在家制作面包太耗时或需要特殊设备。

The truth is that you need no special equipment (although a few easy-to-find pieces help), and it takes less than thirty minutes to make the dough. Shaping the rolls is quick, too, especially once you get the hang of it. Even though the dough takes several hours to rise, your actual hands-on time is only about an hour, leaving you free to do other things. After the first full rise, the dough can be punched down, covered, and refrigerated for up to two days until you’re ready to shape and bake the rolls. And if you don’t need a dozen rolls all at once, you can still bake the full batch and either reheat the remaining rolls the next night or freeze them for up to two weeks.

Get started by gathering your equipment

你可以得到好results with the standard baking equipment you probably already have, but for the most authentic look and feel to these rolls, you might consider buying a few new pieces of inexpensive equipment. The crispest crusts come from baking on either a large pizza stone or a set of quarry tiles (unglazed terra cotta clay squares). I prefer quarry tiles since their darker color retains more heat, which helps to produce rolls with a really deep brown color. If you have neither of these, you can still get good results with extra-dark, shallow baking sheets. A wooden or metal baker’s peel is helpful for transferring the risen rolls to the hot tiles or stone, and a short-handled broom makes it easy to sweep any leftover cornmeal off the tiles after baking.

无论您的烘焙表面如何,您都需要选择小型工具;请参阅下面的列表。您也可以使用装有面团钩的重型搅拌机进行初始混合,尽管我更喜欢手工混合。

Essential tools

量杯
量匙
搅拌碗:
two large, one medium, one small
糕点刷
Wooden spoon
橡胶铲
替补刀
(手持金属糕点刮刀)或塑料碗刮刀
Dishtowels,several clean, non-terry types
两个烤盘或托盘for rising the rolls
Kitchen parchment(if baking the rolls on baking sheets)
锋利的公用刀
Scissors

揉面团时,在面粉上轻松

在完成的面包卷中获得最轻的质地的诀窍是,您需要将面粉添加到需要的情况下,将面粉融合在一起并揉合。根据厨房的相对湿度,每次制作面包卷时使用的面粉量可能会有所不同。这就是为什么我让面团告诉我何时有足够的面团,而不是在我的食谱中呼吁确切的面粉。(这也是为什么食谱不要求称重面粉的原因。)

“听你的面团,”劳伦·格罗夫曼说。“如果您关注它,它将告诉您需要什么。”

我通过在少量温暖的糖水中唤醒酵母来开始面团然后,我将其与除面粉以外的其他面团成分结合在一起。接下来,我逐渐加入面粉。一旦面团在一个蓬松的块中聚集在一起,然后将汤匙围绕在混合汤匙周围并难以搅拌,我就不再添加面粉,然后将面团将其转到我的面粉工作表面上。当我揉捏时,我只添加足够的面粉来防止面团粘在我的手和工作表面上。经过几分钟的轻快揉捏,面团光滑而弹性。要检查其弹性,我要么用两个手指戳它,要么挤压它。如果它迅速恢复到原始形状,则可以上升。

当面团聚集在汤匙周围并难以搅拌时,将其倒入面粉的工作表面并开始揉捏。

Once the dough has gone through two rises and I’ve shaped it into either round or oval rolls or a few of both, flour becomes my friend again. Dousing the shaped rolls with a heavy coating of medium rye or white flour before they rise one last time results in a wonderfully earthy look. The flour toasts during baking and clings to the outside of the baked rolls, giving them an added dimension in flavor and an enticing appearance. I prefer rye flour because it has a nuttier flavor and is less easily absorbed than white flour, but you can use either.

使用轻快的运动来揉面团,直到光滑和弹性为止。如果它粘住,请使用长凳或碗刮刀释放它。

当面团被挤压后弹回时,您已经足够揉捏。

在烘烤过程中加入蒸汽以使其变嫩

When steam is introduced to the dry oven environment, it moistens the exterior of the rolls and keeps the crusts soft enough to allow for even, rapid expansion during the initial stages of baking. This is crucial for a tender, well-formed crumb. Eventually the steam evaporates, allowing the exterior to crisp. Professional bakers use special steam-injected ovens to get this effect, but I’ve found that I can approximate it in my home oven by using ice water.

在我将面包卷放入烤箱中后,我将冰水扔到烤箱地板上,然后在任何蒸汽逸出之前迅速关闭门。如果在烤箱地板上扔水会使您紧张,则可以使用金属烤盘捕获冰水。如果您有燃气烤箱,请将锅放在烤箱地板上;如果您在地板上有带有加热线圈的电烤箱,请将锅放在底部的架子上。

最后一个技巧 - 卷后烘烤后,我将它们留在关闭的烤箱中约五分钟。此步骤会导致外部外壳,因为它可以继续蒸发水分而不会过度损害地壳。

一旦熟悉制作基本卷,就可以通过添加新口味来创建美味的变化。例如,在组装液体混合物时,在面团中添加少量切碎的新鲜细香葱,或用相等量的菌株浸泡液代替白光水,用于重建大量的1/2杯干燥的猪蘑菇。或尝试添加1/2杯新鲜磨碎的帕玛森奶酪,一些破碎的晒干的西红柿,一些非常薄的新鲜罗勒叶和一些黑胡椒粉。

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