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How-To

Fast, Flavorful Vegetable Sautés

These side dishes are simple enough to make with a weeknight steak or chop, yet equally impressive with a special-occasion roast

Fine Cooking Issue 62
Photos: Scott Phillips
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当我寻找一种非常美味却很简单的蔬菜配菜时,我可以在一个工作日的一个晚上一起拉在一起时,我会制作其中一种炒作。它们很简单 - 仅需一个锅即可在不到10分钟的时间内烹饪 - 但与蔬菜的美味混合在一起有点特别。这使他们成为周末鸡或烤牛排的绝妙伴侣,但同样出色地为客人服务,例如烤。它们也足够大,您可以将它们作为淀粉,例如玉米粥,意大利面或米饭等主菜。

For depth of flavor, use a mix of vegetables and stir less for better browning.我喜欢在这些炒炒面中使用至少三种蔬菜,包括混合物中的某种洋葱,以获得其贡献的甜味。

With these sautés, it pays to be hands-off. The less disruption, the better the vegetables can brown, resulting in greater depth of flavor. In fact, the most important step is to let the vegetables sit, undisturbed, for about two minutes after adding them to the hot oil. This guarantees you a start on the nutty sweetness that you get with browning. You’ll be amazed by the flavor development—even bitter radicchio becomes pleasantly nutty.

Build flavor at the get-go: Get a head start on flavor by putting the vegetables in a hot pan and letting them sit undisturbed for the first two or three minutes so that they begin to brown.

Sauté over medium-high heatbut reduce the heat if your pan gets too browned. The best way to read your heat is by the discoloration of the pan’s bottom. You want it to brown but not blacken, so adjust the heat as needed.

With these recipes you end up with a relatively crowded pan, which can create some steam cooking. That’s fine. Steam can’t hurt as long as the heat is still high enough for some flavorful browning to take place, too.

Gunk up your pan: For depth of flavor, the vegetables and the pan bottom should brown without burning. That means not stirring too frequently— but do turn down the heat if your pan starts to blacken. (The pan cleans up easily after a short soak in hot, sudsy water.)

Add the vegetables in the order they’ll take to cook.Vegetables that need time to cook through, like cauliflower, go in the pan first, while leafy greens like spinach and arugula don’t get sautéed at all but are tossed in at the end, wilting under the heat of the other vegetables.

I wait until the vegetables are just about done to add any garlic so it softens but doesn’t lose its flavor. Fresh herbs go in at the end of cooking. Final additions—fresh ginger, soppressata crisps, Parmesan shavings, or a squirt of lemon juice—give each dish that little extra zing.

Add vegetables in stages: Quicker-cooking vegetables like radicchio and spinach go in a little later. This gives the longer-to-cook vegetables a little more time and space to cook.

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