炎热的夏日，最清爽的冷藏汤是什么？即使您没有被标题启动，我也敢打赌，我的西红柿是您的答案是凉亭。

如果不是这样，应该是。墨西哥凉亭很酷，美味又令人振奋，您甚至不必接近烤箱就能制作出来。您所需要的只是少量成熟的西红柿，绿辣椒，大蒜，昨天的面包的大块，以及大量的您喜欢的橄榄油和醋。在食品加工机（或搅拌机，或用切菜板并用手切碎）中，将所有东西都放在锅中，然后放松一下，然后将自己放在碗里。墨西哥凉亭是我的夏季补品。这正是我想要的 - 有时onlything I want—when the weather has me wilting.

A diverse family of Spanish soups

实际上，我最喜欢的冷藏夏汤只是一个大型，宽松的西班牙汤家族的成员（包括一些掺有肉或鱼并被热的人，但这是另一个时间）。在酷版本中，基本上有三种类型：红色，白色和绿色凉亭。每个都以相同的基本成分（面包，橄榄油，醋和大蒜）开始，但增加了另一个或两个元素将其朝着自己的方向驱动。

西红柿是红色墨西哥凉亭的主要成分，含有绿色或红色的胡椒，黄瓜和洋葱，也可以撒上泥，或者散落在成品汤的顶部。白仓凉棚实际上是象牙色的，含有杏仁，或者可能是松子，甚至是利马豆，并且通常用葡萄装饰。听起来有些奇怪，但是一旦您尝试了我精致而充满活力的version, you’ll start craving it. Green gazpachos contain fresh herbs and perhaps some shredded lettuce, but they’re not very common, even in Spain.

First-rate vegetables produce vibrant flavor

Some soups can recover from less-than-ideal ingredients, but gazpacho can’t. The vegetables in gazpacho are generally raw and naked—there’s no slow simmering to coax out sweetness and no cream or butter to mask flavor imperfections—so the soup they produce will reflect their freshness and quality.

So you can bet I’m vigilant about picking the ripest, juiciest tomatoes, the crispest cucumbers and peppers, and the greenest, liveliest herbs when I’m making gazpacho. I happily use one of my best extra-virgin olive oils. And I’ll often use an authentic Spanish sherry vinegar (the traditional choice), though I might substitute red- or white-wine vinegar, or even lemon juice, depending on the version I’m making.

The only ingredient that doesn’t have to be fresh is the bread. Day-old or older bread is actually better. I prefer a baguette or country-style loaf with lots of taste and character, with the crusts trimmed if they’re especially thick or hard. You could also use unseasoned, fresh, homemade breadcrumbs.

Purée in a machine or chop by hand

Originally, preparing gazpacho was a strenuous effort requiring a long mashing in a mortar. No doubt some purists in Spain still make gazpacho this way, and my hat’s off to them, but I go the modern route and use a food processor or a blender. It’s faster, easier, and there’s no compromise in taste or texture.

With a machine, you can purée the ingredients to a lovely silken liquid in minutes or pulse them just long enough to get small pieces, giving the soup a more rustic, slightly coarser consistency. I like it both ways, but when I’m shooting for a smooth, intensely puréed gazpacho, I also strain it through a fine sieve to eliminate any tiny vegetable fibers. When I want the hearty kind I can get my teeth into, I chop the vegetables by hand or pulse them briefly in the processor until they’re about pea-size (in this case, a processor chops more cleanly than a blender). Sometimes I purée a portion of the mixture and hand-chop the rest for a pleasing contrast.

You can serve the gazpacho as soon as it’s made—just drop an ice cube or two in each bowl to chill it—but it’s even better after a few hours in the fridge, not just because it’s most satisfying when well chilled, but also because the flavors need time to meld and marry.

从一开始，墨西哥凉亭便是基于便宜且容易获得的食物的简易菜。既然它已经在美国的土壤中种植，我们可以利用自己的重塑力量，仍然忠于地中海精神。考虑到这一点，这里有三个食谱：一份是基于西红柿和绿色辣椒的真正的安达卢西亚文章，还有两个食谱，两者都在红色和白色的凉亭上个性化的即兴演奏。对我来说，他们是熟悉的服装中的新朋友。