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如何

丰富的馅料和简单的调味料使最好的馄饨

Start with a tender homemade dough and add assertive fillings for stuffed pasta that’s packed with flavor

精细烹饪问题45
Photos: Scott Phillips
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对于许多人来说,馄饨会想到一个特定的图像:厚实的面食面食,里面装满了肉或奶酪(通常很难知道哪个),并用重型番茄酱窒息。“帕尔马风格”磨碎的奶酪的绿色圆柱体完成了图片。

Thatisn’t意大利面的风格我将向您展示如何在这里制作。自制的馄饨实际上可以精致可口。实际上,我餐厅的馄饨菜可能是我所有面食中最微妙,最精致的,它们的调味料往往很简单。虽然未固定的意大利面通常与复杂的酱汁(例如意大利面条Alla Puttanesca或Fettuccine bolognese配对),但最好将馄饨放入浅奶油酱或肉汤中,或者在这里的食谱中,带有简单的烤番茄酱或简单的烤番茄酱或棕色黄油与帕尔玛干酪。这些很快就能制作,它们可以补充馄饨而不会压倒它。

Making ravioli from scratch doesn’t require special equipment.A pasta rolling machine makes fast work of rolling out the dough, but it’s not essential; a regular rolling pin will suffice. For shaping and cutting the filled pasta, a ravioli mold and a scalloped pastry wheel are nice tools, but you’ll also do fine with a biscuit cutter.

Making your own egg pasta dough takes practice, but it’s worth it

Successful ravioli starts with a moist, supple egg pasta dough, which must be rolled into thin sheets, filled, and then cut into shapes before the dough starts to dry out. If that sounds like it takes some skill, it does, but it’s a skill worth having. Once you’re comfortable with the technique for making the dough, you can make any homemade pasta you like, such as fettuccine, lasagna, or orecchiette.

新鲜面食是用面粉,鸡蛋,橄榄油和盐制成的。意大利人经常使用称为“ 00”的柔软面粉,一些食谱要求糕点粉。这些都低的麸质并产生非常细腻的意大利面。在我的餐厅中,我使用“ 00”和通用面粉的组合,但是只能使用通用面粉获得出色的效果。

Making fresh pasta is more about mastering a process than a specific recipe. Because of variations in different types of flour, sizes of eggs, and even weather conditions, following any one recipe to the letter would probably give you less than optimal results. To tell the truth, I don’t even bother measuring my ingredients anymore. I just use the following rule of thumb: one egg per person and between 1/2 and 3/4 cup flour per egg.

关键是要知道何时停止混合面粉。如果您添加不足,面团会太湿,在揉捏和滚动过程中会粘住,这意味着您当时添加更多的面粉。但是,如果您走得太远,面团会硬干燥,在滚动过程中会崩溃,除了再次开始,没有补救措施。您怎么知道面团何时有足够的面粉?从某种程度上看,从视线看,甚至更多。它不会很容易吸收更多的面粉,您会注意到,干粉面粉干燥的块正在剥落。

在开始揉捏之前,刮擦全部the leftover flour on the work surface。Pass the flour through a sieve; you’ll see lots of hardened dough bits left behind. Throw them out. While some frugal Tuscan cooks save these (boiled in a broth, they turn into tiny pasta dumplings), you don’t want them floating around in your dough. They wouldn’t integrate and would create holes when the dough is rolled out. Keep the sifted flour handy because you’ll need a bit more for the next step, which is kneading.

You’ll knead the dough until it becomes smooth and resilient. If it needs more flour to keep it from sticking to the work surface, that’s fine, but again, don’t add too much.

经过the way, you can mix the dough in an electric mixer using a dough hook attachment if you want, but unless you’re making a lot of pasta dough, you’ll probably lose more time cleaning the machine than you saved in the mixing.

Three tips for making tender, moist pasta dough

A deep, wide well of flour makes a tidy mixing bowl. Start beating the eggs with a fork, being sure to stay in the center as you bring in flour from the sides.
The dough will tell you when it has enough flour. The dough will become smooth and homogeneous and won’t easily absorb more flour.
An “innie” becomes an “outie. ” When the dough is sufficiently kneaded, a finger dent will bounce back. Stick your finger into the center; it should feel a bit tacky.

滚动面团,使您的手透过

接下来的步骤是Ravioli行动的最关键部分:将面团铺开,在小土墩上勺子,然后将意大利面切成形状。

Whether you use a rolling pin or a pasta machine, the goal is to get a long, thin sheet that’s as evenly rectangular as possible. Ideally, it should be about 1/32 inch thick. If it’s thicker, the ravioli will be doughy and the filling lost amidst all the pasta. If the dough is too thin, however, the stuffing will break through. The dough is thin enough when you can just about see the outline of your hand through the sheet of pasta.

快速工作,使面团不会变干。面食面团的薄片很快就会失去水分,因此请准备前进而不停止其他任务(这意味着要提前填充)。如果您注意到床单破裂的边缘,请用湿纸巾盖住面团以帮助补充它。干燥的面团不会很好地密封,当您尝试填充或塑造面食时,面食可能会破裂。

Handle the pasta sheets with your wrists, not your fingers.The rolled-out dough sheets aren’t fragile, but to avoid puncturing or tearing them, it’s best to move one around by letting it drape over your wrist and the back of your hand.

在推出面团之前,您将已经制作了馅料,但是在倒入面团之前,请先品尝一下以进行适当的调味。(一旦将其密封在意大利面内,就无法纠正平淡的填充。)

How big the mounds are and how closely you space them determines the size of the ravioli and the width of their borders. For example, if you space the mounds about 1/2 inch apart, each ravioli will have a 1/4-inch border, which is about right for my taste. For that size, you’ll need about 2 teaspoons filling in each mound. Resist the urge to make huge mounds, or you’ll have to stretch the top sheet of dough to cover them, which could cause the filling to break through.

另一个提示:在填充之前,从每张纸的顶部刷过多余的面粉,但请确保在下面的表面易于粉刷以防止粘住。

When it’s time to cut the ravioli into shapes, you can use a scalloped or straight pastry wheel, a ravioli stamp, or even a biscuit cutter. A sharp knife will work, too, but be careful that it doesn’t tear the dough, and use the flat side of fork tines or your fingers to confirm the seal.

馄饨必须在一天之内煮熟,否则必须冷冻。If you’re not cooking the ravioli immediately, line a baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper and sprinkle with semolina or cornmeal, which will absorb moisture and prevent the dough from getting soggy. Arrange the ravioli so they don’t touch or they’ll stick together. Refrigerate them uncovered for up to a day or else put the baking sheet in the freezer. When the ravioli are frozen solid, transfer them to an airtight container. Cook frozen ravioli directly in a pot of rapidly boiling salted water (no need to defrost them first), adding a few at a time and stirring occasionally to keep them separate.

A pasta machine eases the way to a thin sheet

If using a pasta machine, divide the dough into four equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the others refrigerated, wrapped in plastic.
• Flatten the piece of dough with your hand (flour it lightly if necessary) and run it through the widest setting on the machine twice. The first pass roughs up the dough; the second pass smoothes it out.
•将辊子设置为下一个较窄的设置。将面团通过两次。继续以一种设置划分,然后将面团穿过两次。随着面团的延长和薄薄,它会在机器下方堆叠。通过轻轻提起并整齐地将其折叠在机器后面,从而纠正此问题。
• When you can just see the shape and shadow of your hand through the dough sheet (it should be about 1/32 inch thick), stop rolling. You may not need to go to the narrowest setting. Fill and cut it as instructed in the following photos.

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