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How-To

填充葡萄叶是希腊经典

精细烹饪问题59
Photos: Scott Phillips
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在希腊,如果是复活节,圣诞节或您的生日,这是一个很好的借口stuffed grape leaves(dolmathes). These delicious nuggets are one of the foods most closely associated with traditional Greek cuisine, enjoyed both as an appetizer and as a main course.

Making dolmathes at home is a great opportunity to try out delicious fillings. The best-known recipes for dolmathes areyialantzi,要么用米饭和草药填充,要么结合碎肉(羊肉,羊肉,牛肉或小牛肉),米饭和草药。用米饭的叶子通常在室温下加一团厚的希腊酸奶,这使它们非常适合夏季娱乐。(一个食谱产生了五十多个杂物,因此当人群来临时,它们非常适合制作。)馅料中的草药可能会有所不同(新鲜的薄荷,莳萝和香菜是最喜欢的);有些厨师添加葡萄干或松果。填充的叶子在柠檬汁,橄榄油和水浴中煮沸,以添加风味并充分烹饪馅料并使叶子变嫩。

多尔马斯的变化遍布希腊。一些最有趣的填充物来自爱琴海群岛。在Kalymnos中,我有装满米饭和南瓜或茄子的杂物。在罗德(Rhodes)中,布尔古尔小麦(Bulgur Weat)和小茴香(Cumin)代替了大米。在希腊北部,馅料可能是宽豆或小扁豆和大米。

When I make dolmathes, I spread out as many leaves as can fit on my countertop and start portioning out the filling. Depending on the size of the leaves, the amount of filling can vary from a heaping teaspoon to a tablespoon; they should be plump but not overstuffed. As I roll up the leaves, I tuck them, seam side down, into the cooking pot snugly, since they’ll darken if exposed to air while cooking.

Most of the key ingredients for dolmathes are in your grocery store

Grape leaves
在希腊,许多厨师挑选并保存自己的葡萄叶(季节是四月和五月),不仅用于馅料,而且还用于包裹,尤其是用于烤食物,例如鱼类。最嫩的叶子,通常是桌子葡萄品种,是最受欢迎的。苏丹娜葡萄的叶子被认为是最好的。大多数人将叶子变成小包装,以确保整个冬天的准备就绪。其他人则喜欢用盐水腌制叶子。在爱琴海的一些群岛上,厨师像花环一样将叶子串起来,然后将它们杂乱。然后,他们在填充和滚动之前将它们补充水。在美国,一些希腊和中东市场都可以使用新鲜的葡萄叶(主要来自加利福尼亚)。不过,通常,您会发现叶子中的叶子(大多数杂货店都可以买到);典型的罐子容纳50至60叶,尽管通常有些叶子被撕裂。

希腊橄榄油
Olive oil is as much a part of Greek culture as it is a part of-the cuisine. It’s used symbolically in the baptismal and wedding rituals of the Greek Orthodox Church; as a lighting fuel, especially for votive candles; and as a moisturizer —I use it on my face. In the kitchen, we use it for frying, sautéing, roasting, braising, stewing, and as a condiment. It’s often the preferred fat in pastry and other sweets. About 90 percent of the olive oil produced in Greece is extra-virgin, made from several varieties of oil olives, mainly the tiny, prized Koroneiki. The best oils come from Crete and the Peloponnesus. Some of my favorites are widely available in the U.S. The extra-virgin olive oils Gaea Kalamata, Morea, and Kalamata Gold are available fromCardullo的Gourmet Shoppein Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Greek yogurt
Thick, drained Greek yogurt is a perfect match for almost any dolma. It has the tartness of sour cream, which counters the sweetness of the profuse amount of onions in most dolmathes recipes. It also has a much richer, thicker texture than American yogurt, as more of the whey has been drained. One commercial brand of Greek yogurt, Total (also called Fage), is available widely across the U.S.; try natural-foods stores orWhole Foodsmarkets. You could substitute sheep’s milk or goat’s milk yogurt (sold in some groceries and many natural-foods stores) or drain plain full-fat yogurt to thicken it. Start with twice the amount of plain, full-fat yogurt you’ll need, and drain it in a colander lined with a double layer of cheesecloth for two to three hours, or until it has reached the consistency of sour cream.

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