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夏天的精神

还记得杜松子酒吗?本赛季最清爽的鸡尾酒中的关键人物又回来了。

精细烹饪问题94
照片:斯科特·菲利普斯(Scott Phillips)
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In his classic 1940s cocktail book The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, David Embury wrote, “Of all the liquors in the world, gin is probably the most misunderstood, the most maligned, the most abused.” He claimed that the bad reputation gin acquired during Prohibition was as undeserved as it was hard to shake. Postwar drinkers in America remembered gin as something gangsters made in bathtubs. But before Prohibition, gin was a colossus of the spirits world, and its popularity straddled the globe.

今天,杜松子酒的辉煌日子可能正在回来。Gin is almost single-handedly driving the recent resurgence of cocktail culture. It’s on the menu of every self-respecting cocktail bar from New York to San Francisco, more so than vodka, rum, whiskey, or tequila. And there may be more gins on the market now (and in more styles) than at any other time since Prohibition.

What exactly is gin?尽管杜松子酒纯粹主义者在听到时可能会畏缩,但杜松子酒本质上是一种风味的伏特加酒。蒸馏器从中性的谷物精神开始(例如伏特加酒),然后加入草药,香料,根,浆果和种子,使杜松子酒的味道。成分的确切组合因品牌而异,但通常包括柠檬和橙皮。花园草药,例如迷迭香,咸味和茴香;香菜,香菜和肉豆蔻等香料;而且,最重要的是,杜松浆果,使传统的饰物具有象征性的味道,让人联想到松树汁和常绿针针。

杜松子酒的艺术是平衡这些植物的风味的and none of the flavors is harder to work with than juniper. In the best traditional gins, the juniper flavor gives the liquor a woody structure for other flavors to build on and provides a wild note, like a breath of mountain air. But a little too much and gin takes on a medicinal, soapy flavor—think Pine-Sol instead of pine forest.

Deftly blended, though, gin’s refreshing herbal flavors find a natural home in summer cocktails. So with the season’s outdoor parties in mind, it’s time to get gin out of the bathtub, dress it in a crisp linen suit, and give it another look.

Gin cocktails

与威士忌或白兰地不同,杜松子酒永远不会在室温下喝醉或在室温下。当未稀释或不透露时,它的口味可能有些压倒性。但是,只加一点干燥的苦艾酒,将其放在冰上,瞧:有史以来最著名的鸡尾酒,马提尼酒。

马提尼酒和杜松子酒和补品可能是经典的,但是您可以混合使用更多的杜松子酒饮料。这是另一个经典的看法汤姆·柯林斯, and a清爽的投手饮料用薄荷和西瓜汁制成,只是夏天的东西。

Styles of gin

The two main gin types you’ll find in stores are the traditional London dry gin and a new lighter, fruitier style of gin with a less prominent juniper flavor. What this means is that there are enough gins these days to suit almost anyone’s palate, so taste a few to find one that belongs in your liquor cabinet.

伦敦干杜松子酒:这些杜松子酒是在19世纪的英国创建的,以替代当时很容易获得的沉重的麦芽荷兰杜松子酒(称为Genevers)和甜味的老汤姆杜松子酒。如今,伦敦酥脆的伦敦干杜松子酒是迄今为止最常见的类型。它们非常适合经典的鸡尾酒,例如杜松子酒,杜松子酒和补品,以及汤姆·柯林斯,其他。

尝试的瓶子:

  • Tanqueray($21 for 750 ml) The warhorse of London dries, this gin has a sturdy juniper backbone with overtones of coriander and lemon peel and a strong and long finish with hints of anise. Excellent mixed with citrus.
  • 食牛肉者(750毫升$ 19)明亮的橙色和柠檬皮的口味主导着杜松子酒,而丁香,肉桂和杜松则落在后面,以柔和的薄荷味结束。它强烈的柑橘类口味与几乎任何东西混合在一起。
  • 普利茅斯(750毫升$ 26)比其他干杜松子更甜美,更光滑,它具有耐嚼的黑醋栗和甘草风味,与柠檬和常绿糖结合在一起。做一个杀手马提尼酒。

新一代杜松子酒:一些当代酿酒厂对杜松浆果的重视程度较低,并将其重点转移到杜松子酒的其他植物药上,从而使柑橘,花卉和香料口味将杜松从聚光灯中推出(或者在某些情况下,完全摆脱了瓶子)。孟买蓝宝石不是第一个这样做的品牌,但是它在1980年代末和1990年代初的成功为许多其他较轻风格的杜松子酒铺平了道路。这些是新法格鸡尾酒的理想选择西瓜杜松子酒,尽管现在许多调酒师在传统的杜松子酒鸡尾酒中使用它们,以吸引杜松子酒反对者回到折叠中。

尝试的瓶子:

  • Bombay Sapphire($24 for 750 ml) Though the label says London dry, this gin’s toned-down juniper, floral notes, and mild spice have little in common with, say, Tanqueray.
  • 亨德里克的(750毫升35美元)像茶话会一样,亨德里克(Hendrick's)充满了黄瓜和豆瓣菜;迷迭香和淡淡的杜松口味充满了味道,胡椒和丁香有一点香料。
  • 马丁·米勒(Martin Miller)(750毫升35美元)这款杜松子酒是一口紫罗兰色的糖果和干薰衣草,带有茴香籽和新鲜的绿色草药的味道。

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  • 大卫|2018年8月5日

    What do you recommend for a Negroni?

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