Preparation

• Combine the flour, both sugars, salt, and cinnamon or nutmeg, if using, in a medium bowl. Rub in-the butter with your fingertips until it’s well blended and the mixture crumbles coarsely; it should hold together when you pinch it. Refrigerate until needed.

Oatmeal topping variation

• Adding oatmeal makes a more voluminous topping with a rustic, crumbly texture. Add1 cup old- fashioned oatsto the master recipe.

Cornmeal topping variation

• Cornmeal adds some unexpected crunch but makes the topping a bit less crumbly. Add1/4 cup cornmealto the master recipe.

Nut topping variation

• After rubbing in the butter, add1/3 cup chopped walnuts, pecans, or hazelnuts, or sliced almondsto any of the recipes above.