Delouis Fils traditional French mayonnaise is much more than a simple condiment for binding tuna salad. Made with just egg yolks (most commercial brands use whole eggs), safflower oil, lemon juice, and a good shot of Dijon mustard, Delouis mayonnaise is indistinguishable from the best homemade mayonnaise. With its luxuriously smooth texture, ivory color, and rich, tangy flavor, it’s a perfect accompaniment for sliced meats, poached fish, and crudité—but that’s just for starters.

Dress it up with some chopped capers, minced garlic, puréed chipotle peppers, curry powder, horseradish, or tomato purée to make all kinds of dips, spreads, and sauces. (Because of its rather pronounced mustard character, I found that it goes best with assertive flavorings.) I also love its dense consistency, which means I can stir in a bit of heavy cream, yogurt, citrus juice, or lightly whipped cream to make any number of dressings. I was even inspired to resurrect the classic French technique of whisking a little warm broth into a bit of mayonnaise to make a creamy, light sauce for vegetables, poultry, and fish. And, by the way, this mayonnnaise makes a killer tuna sandwich, too.

Delouis Fils is sold in a 12-oz. tub for about $5.99 and should be kept refrigerated at all times. Unopened, it has a four- to five-month shelf life (the lid carries a “use by” date); once opened, it should be used within a month. Look for Delouis in Trader Joe’s, Dean & DeLuca, Hay Day/Sutton Place, Balducci’s, and Whole Foods Markets. Or call Pierre Charpentier, Independent French Manufacturers, at 718-596-1313.