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Article

如何制作糕点

怀斯儿子Deli背后的家伙分享了他们的嫩,烟熏自制五香熏牛肉的食谱。

2015年6月/7月发行
Photos: Scott Phillips
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有少数标志性的菜肴定义了经典的犹太熟食店 - 切面肝脏,摄食球汤,酥脆的犹太莳萝,可折断可听见,但没有一个像pastrami那样重要。埃文·布鲁姆(Evan Bloom)说:“帕斯特拉米(Pastrami)是支柱。”“没有人在乎面包是糟糕的还是土豆沙拉来自罐子。他们只想要五香熏牛肉。”

获取食谱:Homemade Pastrami

That’s why all of the pastrami sold at Wise Sons’s three locations—their sit-down space in the Mission District, their outpost in the city’s Contemporary Jewish Museum, and their regular spot at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market—is made in house (as are their excellent rye bread and potato salad, for the record). That may not sound like a big deal unless you know that some of the most famous delis in the country don’t make their own. But for Beckerman and Bloom, who have been cooking together since 2003 when as students they hosted barbecues at UC Berkeley’s Jewish student center, the idea for crafting the perfect pastrami came before they even decided to open a deli together. In fact, it was why they did.

After graduation, Beckerman and Bloom went their separate ways; Beckerman took a job in public health in Los Angeles and Bloom worked in construction management in the Bay Area. Still, the two friends continued to cook together whenever they could and decided to take on pastrami as a project. Bloom bought a brisket and brined it, and Beckerman loaded a smoker into his car and drove north for the weekend. The pastrami was such a hit that it planted the seed for them to open a deli together in San Francisco.

“There is a significant Jewish community in the Bay Area but not much of a Jewish culture,” notes Beckerman. “There are only a handful of delis here. We were unprepared for the enthusiasm for what we are doing.” To make their pastrami, Bloom and Beckerman start with a hunk of brisket. They soak it in a brine made with sugar, salt, and pickling spices for about a week. Then they season it with a heavy layer of black peppercorns and coriander seeds and gently smoke it over hickory.

根据Bloom的说法,良好的糕点应该是脂肪。它不应该是蛇形的或耐嚼的,而是如此嫩,以至于它散落在您的嘴里。它咸而甜美,您应该能够品尝胡椒,香菜和烟雾。布卢姆说:“很多人都品尝我们的五香熏牛肉,一开始就不明白了。”“他们没有意识到自己在品尝真正的烟。”

When a customer orders a pastrami sandwich at Wise Sons, the meat, though fully cooked already, is sliced by hand and steamed to order. “We have an idealized notion of what a deli should be,” says Bloom. “And that includes a hot sandwich with meat sliced by hand and made where you can see it.”

对于那些居住在旧金山的人来说,怀斯儿子帕斯特拉米很容易找到 - 他们甚至可以交付。对我们其他人来说,好消息是贝克曼和布鲁姆很高兴在这里分享他们的食谱。您的五香熏牛味完全像它们的味道吗?可能没有。但是,即使他们的五香熏牛肉也不是完全一样的。他们强调说:“我们是手工制作的,因此成品有很多变化。”但是,唯一不会改变的事情就是它的效果。

Leo Beckerman (left) and Evan Bloom, co-founders of Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen in San Francisco.



“Wise” ways with pastrami

在Wise Sons Deli菜单上,Pastrami出现了十多次。这烤白菜楔形沙拉and thePastrami-Kimchi Reuben是展示它的两种菜肴。以下是其他客户的最爱(尽量不要流口水):

  • Pastrami & EggsSoftly set scrambled eggs mixed with caramelized onion and small chunks of pastrami. Served with rye toast, of course.
  • Deli BurgerA burger made with 30% ground pastrami with 70% ground beef, topped with beet-horseradish spread, mustard, lettuce, and red onion. Served on a challah bun.
  • Pastrami Cheese FriesHouse-cut fries topped with chopped pastrami, Swiss cheese béchamel, caramelized onions, Russian dressing, and pickles.
  • Semite Sandwich Crisp香菜,瑞士奶酪,芥末酱和黑麦上的煎蛋,配以腌制。

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