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How-To

遇到您最喜欢的牛排

不要介意这个名字。皮瓣肉嫩,多才多艺且相对便宜。

June/July 2016 Issue
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
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我在所有地方发现了我最喜欢的牛排。I was perusing the meat case when I spotted what I thought was a big tray of skirt steak.我仔细观察,我意识到该标签上说“襟翼肉”。皮瓣肉?“当然听起来不好吃,”我想。但是,它的裙子,侧面和衣架牛排的粗晶粒 - 我已经知道在烤架上很棒 - 与提供的所有其他牛排相比,价格无法胜过。由于那个夏天的夜晚我有一小群人来吃晚饭(如果我犯了一个错误,会原谅我的好朋友),我决定试一试。

Back at home, I mixed up a teriyaki(ish) marinade and tossed in the flap meat. That evening, as my friends enjoyed drinks and nibbles on the deck, I fired up the grill and threw on the flap meat. Mere minutes later, the meat was beautifully charred and ready to come off the grill. After giving it a quick rest, I sliced it up, arranged it on a platter, and watched my friends devour it in equally short order. Not only did I become a flap meat evangelical that night, a few of those friends did, too.

What exactly is flap meat?

Flap meat or flap steak is a thin, relatively lean, coarse-grained steak that comes from the belly of the steer, near the same area as flank steak.从技术上讲,襟翼肉是底部牛lo屁股的一部分,尽管何时购物并不重要。重要的是要知道,皮瓣肉以其他名称为单位,并且可能会以不同的方式切割,具体取决于您的住所。In the Northeast U.S., flap meat is more likely to be called “sirloin tip,” and it’s often sold in cubes (for kebabs) or in long, fat strips (which is how I first encountered it at Costco).在该国其他地区,将其作为一个整体牛排可能是常态。您可能还会看到皮瓣肉以法国名称,Bavette或更正确的方式,Bavette d'Aloyau;bavette (which means bib) can refer to any number of thin steaks, but bavette d’aloyau (bib of the sirloin) is specific to flap meat.

要知道的另一件事是,它应该是肉饼中最便宜的牛排之一。It’s still flying under the radar (and I selfishly hope that the weird name will help it stay that way), but I have seen prices that vary widely.在一家超市,我发现皮瓣肉每磅$ 8,而侧面牛排为10美元,裙子牛排为15美元。But at another market, literally across the street, flap meat was $15 per pound (on sale for $13) with no apparent difference in grade or other quality factors.



Whole flap steak


Flap steak strips


Flap steak cubes or tips

Load it up with flavor

Flap meat’s coarse grain makes it a champ at holding on to the flavors of a marinade, which can easily penetrate the loose structure of the meat. And if your marinade has something like minced garlic or ginger in it, those little bits can snuggle between the meat fibers, where they have less chance of burning. Just be careful not to soak flap meat for too long, or you run the risk of the marinade overwhelming the meat, particularly if the marinade contains soy sauce, fish sauce, or some other salty ingredient. Four to six hours seems to be the sweet spot for flap meat.

That said, a marinade isn’t always required. Flap meat has plenty of rich, beefy flavor on its own, so I’ll often just hit it with a good dose of kosher salt and freshly ground pepper before cooking it, and then finish it with a compound butter or dab it in some good old-fashioned steak sauce.

使用高温

You can cook your flap meat using any dry heat method—grilling, broiling, pan-searing—so long as the heat is relatively high. High heat makes for better browning and crispy, charred edges. Charred edges, by the way, are the reason I like cooking flap meat in big, fat strips—more angles and surface area increase the likelihood that charring will happen.

煮几乎

As someone who usually loves her steak rare to medium rare, I almost feel like a heretic when I say this, but I think flap meat is really best when it’s more on the medium side of medium rare. Unless it’s been sliced super thin, flap meat that’s too rare can be unpleasantly chewy. And cooking it too much will obviously make it tough and dry. My approach is to cut the meat into pieces of even thickness so it’ll cook evenly and shoot for right around 140°F. After resting, flap meat cooked to that temperature will be pink (not red), tender, and juicy.

tem

烹饪皮瓣肉最难的事情是知道何时完成。有了经验,您就可以通过指尖戳戳它来分辨;当感觉比开始时有点牢固,就准备好了。但是,除非您将其煮熟以了解它的感觉,否则您需要使用数字即时阅读的温度计。Digital instant-reads typically don’t need to be pushed very far into the meat to get a good reading, and that’s key when you’re temping something as thin as flap meat.Going in at an angle will also help you get a truer read of interior temperature since more of the probe tip is likely to hit the center.If you’re in the market for a new instant-read thermometer, the super speedy and accurate Thermapen from Thermoworks is worth every cent of its $99 price tag.另外,它具有有趣的颜色彩虹,因此您永远不会在抽屉里丢失它。

Slice against the grain

Cooked flap meat should always be thinly sliced across the grain to make those coarse meat fibers short and easier to chew. I like to do this before serving because I figure that even if my guests already know they ought to be cutting their steak against the grain—which is true for all meat—it can be hard to pay attention to that when there’s conversation and good times going on.

就是这样,您永远不知道您需要了解的有关皮瓣肉的一切。继续阅读以找到四种美味的方法来享受我希望成为您最喜欢的牛排的东西。

How to Cut Flap Meat Against The Grain

将肉用谷物切成宽的碎片,这些碎片是您希望切片长的。
Slice the meat thinly across (perpendicular to) the grain. It may be necessary to first flip each piece onto another side in order to do this.

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