我喜欢夏末西红柿。在浸泡了几个月的热量和阳光之后，它们更甜，柔软，更美味。尽管很难击败大自然的手工作品，但我已经开发了一种使它们变得更甜的方法。

At Vetri, one of my restaurants in Philadelphia, we roast thick slices of ripe tomato in large batches overnight, letting them cook slowly in the residual heat of the ovens and then in the warmth of the pilot light. In the morning, the tomatoes, which do not completely dry out, look wrinkly and lightly caramelized in spots and have a flavor that’s rich, deep, and sweet. This tomato “conserva” (see below for why I put conserva in quotes) is delicious on its own as a condiment for just about anything grilled, but we also use it as a not-so-secret ingredient wherever we want to add intense tomato flavor.

Get the recipe:番茄保护区

My restaurant technique is easy to duplicate at home: Simply toss sliced tomatoes with a little olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper and spread on a baking sheet. Start them in a moderately hot oven and then slowly roast until they look like the ones at right—5 to 6 hours should do it. You can use whatever tomatoes you like, but meatier ones, such as beefsteaks or plums (romas), work really well.

有些人可能会暗示，夏天不是缓慢烘焙的西红柿的时候 - 一年中的这个时候它们是如此的原始，并且应该保存这种方法来增强淡淡的冬季西红柿的味道。我再也不能不同意。从最佳的西红柿开始，您将获得最好的番茄保护区。当然，您可以在一月份的季节性西红柿中做到这一点，但它不会像夏季制作的保护区那样好。另外，制作番茄保护区是消耗花园中所有这些西红柿的好方法。

番茄保护区的通用性无穷无尽。在随后的食谱中，我在经典面食All'Amatriciana中使用它代替了罐头西红柿，在那里，保护区的甜味从辣的红辣椒片和咸煎饼中脱颖而出。我还用它来制作一种醋，使我在五颜六色的传家宝西红柿和毛burrata奶酪上淋上毛毛，作为终极的夏季沙拉。

除了这些食谱之外，番茄保护区还可以在披萨，玉米粥上享用披萨或添加到菠菜或面包沙拉中。在三明治或旁边很棒，就像一个美味一样。在我更休闲的餐厅Alla Spina中，我们为番茄保护区服务，作为我们的Taleggio和烤胡椒烤奶酪的调味品。我最喜欢的休闲晚餐之一是用一些番茄保护区，新鲜的山羊奶酪，切碎的百里香和一个炸鸡蛋组成。

我还通过省略大蒜并用一些糖撒上番茄，制作出更甜蜜的番茄保护节。甜番茄保护节是巨大的磅蛋糕，橄榄油蛋糕或意大利乳清干酪芝士蛋糕。我也喜欢它切碎并用橄榄油冰淇淋，甚至是好的老式香草冰淇淋。

一旦您自己制作，您一定会找到自己喜欢的方法来使用番茄保护区（这很容易，没有任何借口不这样做）。只是不要等到冬天。

特色食谱

You say conserva…

意大利烹饪爱好者可能正确地指出，在意大利，番茄保护区更像是番茄酱。我将这些西红柿称为“守平”，因为它们的质地就像一个保护区（全果果酱）。该方法也是一种从真正成熟的西红柿中再获得一周的方法。尽管我经历了如此快的速度，以至于我不需要这样做，但您可以冻结几个月的烤西红柿，在冬天“保护”它们。

如何选择多汁的西红柿

You know when you lift a potted plant and it’s really light, it means the soil is dry? It’s the same with a tomato. If it’s heavy, then it’s nice and juicy, and vice versa. So pick one up to feel its weight. Then bring it to your nose. Even from the outside, it should have a strong tomato fragrance; if not, put it down and keep looking. For making conserva, you want tomatoes that are ripe but not mushy; save the mushy ones for the saucepot.