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How-To

Updating American Fruit Desserts

新的浇头和夏季水果组合为这些热情的经典作品提供了新的旋转

精细烹饪问题66
Photos: Scott Phillips
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许多老式的美国水果甜点都有奇特而又晦涩的名字,例如Pandowdy,Betty,Buckle和Grunt。尽管名称似乎很奇怪,但甜点本身却很美味,易于制作。他们实际上只是亲吻更熟悉的补鞋匠的堂兄 - 淡淡的水果配对,上面是面团。

Because we have so many marvelous fresh fruits in our markets at this time of year, I’ve updated these old-time recipes using fruit combinations that may never have been used in the “olden days,” and I’ve given some of the toppings new twists. For example, pandowdies were historically made with apples and bread dough. In my修订的食谱, I combined peaches and blueberries and exchanged the traditional bread dough for a buttery pastry topped with sliced almonds.

The one dessert I’ve left almost unchanged is theApple Brown Betty。当用苹果制成时,这仍然是最好的,但是我没有使用干面包屑,而是发现从耐嚼的意大利面包或法国面包中撕裂的面包块使与柔软的水果形成鲜明对比。

All of these homespun desserts are ideal for picnics, barbecues, and informal parties, outdoors or in. They’re delicious on their own, but you can also serve them with lightly sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Brown Betty

This is a delicious dish of sugared and spiced apples layered with butter-toasted breadcrumbs. Calvados (French apple brandy) or apple cider and vanilla are poured over the apples for extra flavor and moistness.

Although we don’t know this dessert’s origin for certain, it probably came about like so many of America’s early fruit desserts, as a way for a housewife to quickly make a treat for her family by using up what she had on hand— some stale bread and apples, which were readily available.

Apples were the one fruit almost everyone had access to, since the Pilgrims brought apple seedlings with them on the Mayflower in 1620. In my research, I haven’t been able to discover why this dish is called “betty,” but the earliest version I’ve found is from an 1856 cookbook, where it’s named “Apple Brown Betsy.”

苹果棕色贝蒂和质朴的碎屑。

Grunt

不要让这个名字把你拒之门外。这种烤水果的甜点饰有饼干或饺子,是优雅简单的高度。我的版本是在略微增厚的汁液中烘烤的轻微五香李子,上面是金色的肉桂旋转饼干。

许多旧食谱说要在炉子顶部的一个有盖容器中弹出咕unt声,但是我更喜欢烤箱,因为浇头变得牢固,并提供了与柔软水果的美味质地对比。可以用任何水果制成咕unt声,但是李子由于其颜色,酸味和多汁而特别好。

As for the name, I’ve read it came about because of the grunting sound the dish makes when it comes out of the oven, but my grunts have always been silent.

李子咕unt着旋转的饼干浇头。

Pandowdy

一个潘多迪(Pandowdy) - 烤水果烤了一块面团 - 回到了殖民时代。当家庭主妇从面包制作中留下一团面团时,这种简单的甜点可能会出现,并认为这将成为水果的不错的馅料,这通常意味着苹果。苹果·潘多迪(Apple Pandowdy)在1940年代的一首歌中被戴娜·肖尔(Dinah Shore)永生,在那里她夸张了关于甜点的能力“在天堂多云的时候使阳光出来的能力。”

Today, pandowdies aren’t limited to apples and bread doughs. Here, a round of rich, pre-baked pastry is set over a mix of spliced peaches and blueberries.

加香料的桃蓝莓pandowdy。

扣上

A buckle, a tender yellow cake topped with fruit and a streusel topping, is a kind of crumb cake. My version features a rich yellow cake batter with fresh apricots and raspberries, both in the cake and on top. Just what “buckle” means is uncertain. Most likely it has to do with the fact that the streusel topping sinks (or buckles) into the cake at irregular intervals, but maybe it’s just that your knees will buckle when you taste how delicious it is. Be that as it may, buckles are easy to make and beautiful to look at. This dessert is best when very fresh, but leftovers are delicious for breakfast.

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  • snibb | 08/19/2019

    I've made all 4 of these. With the exception of the apple brown betty, they were excellent. The betty was a big disappointment. It turned out very dry and a little on the bland side.

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