Preparation

To use a food processor

• Pulse the flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Add the butter pieces, and pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal with some pea-size pieces. Sprinkle with 4 Tbs. of the water, and pulse until the dough comes together. If too dry, add the remaining water by the teaspoon, and pulse until the dough just comes together.

To work by hand

• In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or your fingertips, work the butter into the mixture until most of it resembles coarse meal with some pea-size pieces. Form a well in the center. Sprinkle with 4 Tbs. of the ice water. Mix with your fingertips until the dough holds together enough to form a ball. If too dry, add the remaining water by the teaspoon, and mix until the dough comes together.

For both methods

• Form the dough into a ball, put it between two sheets of plastic wrap, and then press it into an 8-inch round. Wrap it tightly in more plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days before rolling out. (Or freeze it for up to 2 months; thaw in the refrigerator overnight before rolling it out.)

Black pepper:Add 1/2 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper to the dry ingredients.

Corn meal:Substitute 1/4 cup fine cornmeal for 1/4 cup of the flour.

Poppyseed:Add 2 Tbs. poppyseeds to the dry ingredients