Preparation

• Put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan with enough cool water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add 1 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a gentle boil, skimming off any foam, until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes.
• Drain well in a colander, letting the steam rise off the potatoes for a few minutes.
• Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter in the saucepan until the butter is melted. Season with 1 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. For a rustic texture, return the potatoes to the pan and mash with a potato masher to the consistency you like.
• For a smooth texture, pass the potatoes through a ricer or food mill into the saucepan and stir to combine. (For really smooth potatoes, whisk the potatoes briefly.)
• Season to taste with more salt and pepper and thin with additional milk, if necessary, before serving.

Rosemary and garlicFollow the recipe but add 2 large peeled cloves of garlic to the potatoes at the start of cooking. Then add 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary along with the milk and butter. This is spectacular with roast lamb.

Saffron and shallotFollow the recipe but heat only the butter. Add 1 small finely chopped shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the milk and 2 pinches of saffron threads and bring to a simmer before adding the potatoes. Serve with scallops or shrimp or some poached smoked haddock.

新鲜的香草Follow the recipe and stir in 1 Tbs. each of finely chopped fresh chives, parsley, and dill just before serving. This is especially good with fish.