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A Fresh Approach to Carrots

再看一下这种熟悉的蔬菜,因为它在五种新鲜食谱中呈现出甜美的味道和鲜艳的颜色

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Photos: Scott Phillips
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When we were kids, we ate a lot of carrots, always raw and sprinkled with salt. I think that’s the way many people approach carrots—as a virtuous snack between meals. And all those carrots chopped up for the stockpot don’t get much thought either, even though carrots add a sweet depth of flavor and a splash of color to stews and soups. So it’s probably not surprising that carrots are often overlooked by home cooks and restaurant chefs alike. But because carrots—so wonderful as a flavor base—can also hold their own, I often make them the star of a soup, salad, savory soufflé, or side dish.

Buy the freshest carrots you can and use them sooner rather than later

At first glance, carrots can seem uninspiring. Sold year-round, they don’t generate the same excitement as, say, asparagus in springtime or tomatoes and corn in summer. And because they last a while in the refrigerator without any apparent wilting or spoiling, people tend to buy them and forget about them. This prompts a vicious circle: when they finally do get used, these older carrots have lost a lot of flavor and are, well, uninspiring.

另一方面,好的新鲜胡萝卜值得兴奋。当使用原始时,它们会制作酥脆而清爽的沙拉。煮熟时,它们的甜味会加剧,蔬菜实际上在您的嘴里融化。

Look for firm carrots with smooth skin。胡萝卜可能全年可用,但根据收获何时的不同特征。在春末,您会发现年轻的小胡萝卜是如此温和和嫩的胡萝卜,甚至不需要去皮。有了这些胡萝卜,我留下了一些柔软的绿色茎,这是完美的可食用,并增加了春季颜色的明亮。在夏天,您会发现更多成熟的胡萝卜,这些胡萝卜具有更强的味道。在秋天和初冬,胡萝卜最甜蜜,因为寒冷的天气将淀粉变成糖。理想情况下,您应该在购买前品尝,因为很难单独判断胡萝卜的味道。当您无法品尝时,您可以寻找指向新鲜度的线索。较旧的胡萝卜看起来很干,虽然裂缝正在运行。而且,如果您可以弯曲胡萝卜并且不会折断,请不要购买。

绿色上衣是一个好兆头 - 大多数时候。Carrots with their greenery still attached are usually fresher than those carrots packed in plastic without their tops. But be sure the greens are moist and verdant. Left on too long, the greens can rob carrots of their moisture and vitamins, which is why you should cut off the greens before storing carrots.

Use your carrots!将胡萝卜存放在冰箱中最冷的部分。在购买最大风味的三天之内,请使用真正的婴儿胡萝卜(与那些较大的胡萝卜相对于拇指尺寸并用塑料袋出售的那些较大的胡萝卜)。更多成熟的胡萝卜应该持续一周左右。至于那些已经闲逛了几个星期的人,它们在胡萝卜扮演次要角色的菜肴中可能就足够了,但是请不要在这些食谱中尝试它们。甚至不要打扰那些在洗牌中迷失的胡萝卜,现在像橡胶一样弯曲。将它们放到最近的兔子或马。

并非所有的胡萝卜都是橙色 - 尝试白色甚至紫色

The most common variety found in American markets is Imperator, which is orange, long, and tapered. Small, round varieties, such as Thumbelina, Danvers, and Paris Market Round, are becoming easier to find, especially at farmers’ markets. Nantes, a French variety that’s uniformly cylindrical, is becoming more widely available here and has an amazing sweetness. It also has the benefit of a relatively uniform size, so it’s easier to cut and chop into evenly sized pieces.

I’ve also cooked with carrots that range from pale white to reddish purple. When I worked at Chez Panisse, we’d buy carrots like these from the Chino family ranch in Rancho Santa Fe, California. They don’t do mail-order, but if you live near there, their farmstand is definitely worth a visit.

如何在不割伤自己的情况下切胡萝卜

我记得一块胡萝卜在厨房里飞来飞去时,每当我们孩子们尝试将胡萝卜砍掉妈妈的意大利面条酱时,我们的贵宾犬就会为它们刺痛。由于它们的圆形,切碎的胡萝卜可能会很痛苦。切片时,胡萝卜可以滚开。使胡萝卜易于使用的诀窍是使他们成为稳定的基础。为此,将一块切成薄片的切片切成薄片。然后将切割侧放在工作表面上。现在,您已经准备好剪裁所需的任何形状了。

Always use a very sharp knife when cutting carrots.While that’s a good rule for any vegetable, carrots especially need a sharp blade; the force you need to exert to cut them with a dull blade can backfire on you, and you’ll end up cutting your hand instead. And don’t shy away from mechanical tools. Although learning toslice carrots into a julienne by hand是一个值得一提的教训,当您有很多胡萝卜要切割时,请随时使用曼陀林或日本切片机。当您不得不将大量胡萝卜切碎时,食品加工机是一个奇迹工人。

剥皮还是不剥皮?如果胡萝卜年轻又温柔,我不会剥皮;皮肤包含很多风味以及维生素。随着胡萝卜的成熟,它们的皮肤变得有点苦,所以我只是剥去了一层薄层(我喜欢Oxo的好握住果皮,但是您在五金店中发现的种类也很好)。成熟的胡萝卜可以具有木质和纤维状的核心;我通过纵向切割胡萝卜,然后沿着核心的侧面切割,将其切开,并切割与胡萝卜的外橙色部分相遇。

胡萝卜吃各种烹饪

Carrots can be cooked any number of ways. I love them roasted with a little salt and olive oil, or sautéed with a bit of garlic and some tomato paste. Just avoid cooking carrots in a large amount of water, which robs them of their flavor as well as their vitamins. Make sure any liquid is either evaporated over high heat to intensify the flavor of the carrots or used in the finished dish.

各种新鲜草药补充胡萝卜。我最喜欢的是Chervil和Chives,在上菜前添加了细香葱。香菜和小茴香等干香料也与胡萝卜配对。但是,无论您添加什么,确保良好口味的最佳方法是从新鲜的,可口的胡萝卜开始。

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