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Choosing Among Citrus Juicers

When looking for your main squeeze, consider price, counter space, elbow grease, and how often you crave fresh-squeezed juice

精心烹饪Issue 36
照片:Scott Phillips
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Serious cooks know the value of fresh-squeezed citrus juice. It’s used in marinades and vinaigrettes, on vegetables and fish, in cakes, tarts, and sorbets.

But how to get that juice? Thinking about my own juicing habits, I realized that I unconsciously follow a “quartercup rule.” If I need less than a quarter of a cup, I squeeze the fruit by hand; more than that, I turn to technology for help. I’ve taken a look at some of the most widely available products used for extracting citrus juice. Although you can spend $500, even up to $3,000 for a citrus juicer (check the正门目录如果您不相信我),我将仔细阅读到那些以125美元或更少的价格响起的机器,在大多数情况下,我会更少。

对于完全控制,请尝试手持式铰刀。手持式铰刀有一个带有锥形尖端的脊锥上的手柄。您将尖端压入一半柑橘果的肉中,然后扭曲以提取果汁。

“With a reamer you can see if you’re breaking into the rind,” says reamer-fan Norman van Aken, the chef and coowner of Norman’s in Miami. The key flavor point for juicers is whether the juicer breaks into the skin, releasing potent oils that give the juice a more tangy—some would say bitter—flavor.

铰刀是廉价的(10美元),易于储存, and quick to clean. “When I’m done with the reamer, I just throw it into the sink,” says van Aken. The downside of a reamer is that for large amounts of juice your hand will tire, so choose a model with a comfortable handle.

添加碟子和滤网,您将拥有典型的榨汁机。This is the juicer your grandma used. The citrus half gets pressed onto the cone and turned by hand to extract its juice. Sunkist popularized this kitchen gadget when it launched its “Drink an Orange” campaign in 1916. As part of its promotion, the company began producing its own line of glass reamers. Today, these reamer-saucers are made from all kinds of materials—plastic, ceramic, glass, metal—and have become quite the kitchen collectible. I particularly like a little metal one, available at most kitchen stores, that fits in a drawer and can take a beating (unfortunately, it’s too small for a grapefruit).

Metal hand-held presses are, well, handy.当我在Williams-Sonoma目录中看到Jaunty的墨西哥果汁压力机时,我想起了纽约Zarela's的厨师所有者Zarela Martinez,告诉我这是她最喜欢的厨房工具之一。有一个较小的绿色绿色,一个较大的绿色(您猜到了),柠檬是leallow的。当我用绿新闻挤压石灰时,我坠入爱河。您将一半的石灰放在穿孔的帽子上。将把手压在一起,将锥体挤压到石灰的皮肤侧。令人满意pfffft,随着新闻界颠倒石灰,每滴果汁都会被挤出。

这种方式用榨汁柠檬少了一点。对于初学者来说,柠檬通常更大,因此您需要两只手将其手柄挤在一起以挤压水果,而柠檬的皮肤较厚意味着您需要施加更大的压力。如果您的柠檬底部有一点小块,则它的杯子不好,这会给您提供更少的果汁,并且通常会在眼中喷出。((精心烹饪’scopy editor, who owns these presses, pointed out that she just cuts off those nubs before pressing.)

Aside from these painted presses, there are unpainted metal ones, such as the one featured recently in the Sur la Table catalog. The unpainted metal lime press costs $10.95; the colored presses are $15. None of the hand-held presses can hold an orange or a grapefruit, which is something to consider. But for limes the press works so well (and looks so good), I’d buy one just for making margaritas.

挤压了这款墨西哥新闻界的手柄,果汁从其穿孔的底部倒入。一个提示:果实在切成一面。
柠檬件在柠檬新闻中恰好适合,反之亦然。一部分乐趣是在压榨后拉出了甜点形的石灰。

台面压力机提供大量PSI,PDQ。Smooth rack-and-pinion gearing, controlled by a lever or handle, exerts hundreds of pounds of downward pressure on a citrus half. Most of these kinds of presses, such as the OrangeX and the Chef’s Juicer, both of which hover around the $100 range, stand fairly tall, and are best suited to kitchens with plenty of counter space. The only short one I’ve come across is called the Mighty OJ, by Metrokane. It’s about eight inches tall, has a charming rounded shape, comes in myriad colors, and costs around $50. (Be sure to shop around when buying juicers: there’s a great disparity in price for the same model from catalogs, discount stores, and the Internet.)

我最喜欢所有这些台面榨汁机的最佳选择是,您可以快速榨汁,而不会烦人的电动机。但是,如果您遵循手柄太远,它们可以将水果分开,并且确实需要一些努力。将一杯柠檬汁与橙色榨汁后,我可以感觉到三头肌开始燃烧。危险笼罩着危险:强大的OJ和Orangex上的重型顶部都可以掉到手指上;在清洁强大的OJ时,这发生在我身上,我可以告诉你它很痛。仅出于这个原因,我就会考虑厨师的榨汁机,该榨汁机具有带有摇摆的机制的弹簧手柄,可防止压力机落在粗心的手指上。

Electric juicers are fastest and least painful.如果您喝了很多果汁,电力榨汁机可能会走。我测试工作的所有电动型号基本上都相同:您将柑橘钉在铰刀上,但是铰刀不仅会自动转动,而不是您转动水果。我尝试过的最强大的一种,是250瓦的警告柑橘榨汁机(125美元),比最快的台面新闻快三十秒钟,生产了一杯柠檬汁,比铰刀快大约一分钟。(当然,每个柠檬中的果汁量会有所不同,因此结果会有所不同。)但是,在不可否认的是,电动模型耗尽了竞争,这是付出的,这是最小的。

您可以以低至15美元的价格获得电动型号,但您可能不想。我在该范围内尝试的那些工作正常,但存在明确的缺陷。例如,Farberware的Deluxe柑橘榨汁机看起来有点凉爽,具有金属饰边,我喜欢如何整齐地将其多余的绳索盘绕在容器下方。但是它的金属边缘锋利,滤网没有平稳地连接到容器上。廉价的Krups Pressa Maxi搭配得更好,但是有些果汁会在提供的容器外面喷洒,也许是因为它的圆锥体太高,也许是因为容器不够宽。

尽管它赢得了速度和肌肉的胜利,但与Acme销售的Waring-Made Juicer相同的Waring模型具有令人讨厌的高音声音:我不想醒来的事情。而且它没有盖子,我发现这令人惊讶。盖子似乎是一个明智,廉价的功能,可以防止灰尘,而在榨汁机没有运行的时候,其他可能掉入碗中。

My favorite of the electric models I tested was the Braun Citromatic de Luxe。以合理的$ 30,这一切都拥有了。虽然它的电动机不像Waring模型那么强大,但它的声音并不那么令人讨厌。它还带有盖子,可以抬起嘴,使果汁在您带走玻璃杯时不会滴到柜台上。我还喜欢其滤网的独特设计,这不仅很容易清洁,因为果肉不会粘在其中,而且还可以防止最小的种子进入果汁。(糕点厨师梅利莎·墨菲(Melissa Murphy)是纽约布鲁克林的Sweet MelissaPâtisserie的所有者,明智地指出,要从大多数电动榨汁机(甚至具有内置过滤器的榨汁机)中过滤果汁是一个好主意。)

设备附件是另一种选择。I didn’t even think of this category until David Lebovitz, a pastry chef and author (who mainly uses his vintage glass reamer for juicing), mentioned that when he needs a lot of juice he turns to his Cuisinart food processor’s citrus attachment. Cuisinart no longer makes the attachment for its larger models, but its Little Pro Plus comes with a citrus attachment. You can buy a citrus attachment for KitchenAid’s food processors, as well as for its stand mixers. Since I already have a KitchenAid stand mixer, the attachment really appeals to me—I get the benefit of the mixer’s powerful electric motor but with an easy-to-store, reasonably priced ($25) attachment.

因此,有了所有这些选择,要购买什么?如果您有一个新鲜的果汁饮食的家庭(或者,如果您患有关节炎,请想到它),一定要拿到电动榨汁机,或者在一个安静的早晨,是其中一个台面压力机。(一个警告:如果您喜欢果肉,那么您的选择将更加有限:压力机,布劳恩(Braun)和警告菌株几乎全部都是纸浆。)

但是,如果您像我一样发现,您只需要一杯以上的柑橘汁,每年只需四次,即可赚钱,节省柜台空间,并偶尔给您的手与铰刀一起锻炼。另一方面,如果我有电榨榨汁机,也许我倾向于开始使用新鲜果汁开始新的一天。

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