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如何

做无油脂汤

精细烹饪问题26
Photos: Brian Hagiwara and Scott Phillips.
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我知道应该是春天,但是三月的风很冷,四月的阵雨潮湿,所以一碗蒸汤就是我现在想要的。汤从透明的汤到浓稠,丰盛的口香糖,但是知道一些重要的原理 - 例如煮沸而不是在正确的时间煮沸和添加食材 - 可以帮助您使任何汤都能味道最好。

为了吃一块好汤,要吃一个重锅

当我用锅里煮熟的锅,底部有一层不锈钢,底部有一层铜,我的食物总是会在铜层上方烧焦。这给我留下了深刻的印象,这是一种良好的散热金属的重要性。我喜欢使用带有搪瓷或不锈钢表面的重规锅以及铝,铜或铸铁的导电芯。

看锅,这样就不会沸腾

煮沸,特别是大力的沸腾会导致成分中的脂肪用液体乳化 - 就像在醋中摇石和醋一样,并会给您带来多云,油腻的汤料或汤。将汤放在慢火煮的下方会防止这种乳液,然后大部分脂肪会漂浮到顶部,在那里易于脱离。

从冷水开始以获得更多风味

Starting ingredients in a cold liquid more fully extracts their flavors. With slow heating, the starches in the vegetables swell more slowly and allow cells in the interior to break down and exude flavors more easily. (If you’ve ever tasted the celery or onions strained from a good stock, you found that they had practically no flavor: it all went into the stock.) This is especially important when you use just water or a canned stock as your soup base.

另一种提高汤的味道基本是to use old, soft vegetables—not rotten, mind you, just very “mature” ones. The insoluble pectic substances (the “glue” that holds the cells together) have converted to water-soluble pectins, so the cells fall apart easily and they readily contribute flavor to the liquid.

层成分以建立复杂性

Soup makers frequently add different ingredients at different times, depending on how long they want each to cook. But adding the same ingredient at different times can give a soup a delicious complexity. Louisiana chef Paul Prudhomme uses this technique, called layering, in his gumbo. He starts by adding onions, okra, bell peppers, and celery to a dark roux (fat and flour cooked until deep brown and very hot). These vegetables will be literally cooked to pieces when the gumbo is done, but they contribute deep flavor from their long cooking which started with intense heat. Midway through cooking time, he adds some of the same vegetables. These will cook until very soft. Near the end of the cooking time, he’ll again add more of the same vegetables (and perhaps a few others), which stay crisp and bright in the finished gumbo.

分层与长期煮熟时会产生令人不愉快的口味和气味的蔬菜。当烹饪时间从5到7分钟增加时,白菜,花椰菜,布鲁塞尔芽菜,萝卜和芥末绿,羽衣甘蓝,kohlrabi和rutabaga的含量是硫化臭氢(腐烂的鸡蛋气味)的两倍。为了使这个家庭的成员温和而愉悦的品尝,请将它们切成薄片或切碎,以便快速烹饪,并在食用前将它们添加到汤中,只有4分钟或5分钟。

棕色前方以获得更丰富的味道

Foods cooked in water will never get hotter than 212°F, so you can’t get the wonderful sweet compounds that form at higher temperatures (some of the compounds formed in long-cooked onions are even sweeter than sugar) or that form with browning. Browning meats or vegetables in a little fat in a hot skillet before adding them to the soup adds tremendous flavor.

用脂肪和酒精解锁口味

For a soup to be truly full-flavored and rich, you need to get all the flavors from every ingredient. Many flavor compounds dissolve in water, which is the base of most soups anyway. But other flavor compounds dissolve in fat, so a little fat (either added to the soup or from meat that’s in the soup) will unlock and carry flavors.

酒精是“神秘成分”,可以为汤增添最终风味尺寸。无论是在葡萄酒还是烈酒中,酒精都可以溶解水和脂肪,以及一些不能被水或脂肪溶解的化合物。因此,雪利酒,马德拉酱,红或白葡萄酒不仅可以为汤增添愉悦的味道,而且还可以帮助释放其他成分的风味深度。

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