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杂志

巧克力甘纳奇的科学

Fat and water don't usually mix, but they do when chocolate meets cream. Here's how the delicious magic happens.

2019年4月/5月发行
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什么是Ganache?

Ganache is a velvety emulsion made by combining chocolate and heavy cream. When chilled, its consistency may be firm and nearly chewy; when warm, it flows. Depending on the ratio of chocolate to cream, ganache can have a wide range of textures, allowing it to serve as the rich center of atruffle, a蛋糕馅or decoration,糕点釉, a搅动慕斯,或chocolate sauce。(发现在我们的食谱集合中使用Ganache的多种方法:When Chocolate Meets Cream)

It’s all about that ratio

巧克力与奶油的比例决定了甘纳奇的一致性。Ganache以两份巧克力的比例与一份奶油的比例相比,将其冷却到牢固而光滑的质地,非常适合卷成巧克力松露。将比率更改为等于巧克力和奶油的比例,您将拥有中等一致的Ganache,正好适合玻璃和填充蛋糕和糕点。在一部分巧克力,两份奶油中,您将有液体或柔软的ganache,可以将其搅拌成慕斯之类的稠度。为了最高的精度,请按重量而不是体积测量巧克力和奶油。

从上到下:用于玻璃和填充的中等矛盾;牢固而光滑的松露;鞭打柔软的ganache。

一个很好的融合

Ganache is a fat-in-water emulsion. Technically, fat and water don’t mix, but when emulsified, tiny droplets of cocoa butter from the chocolate and droplets of butterfat from the cream become dispersed and suspended in a syrup consisting mostly of water from the cream as well as melted sugar from the chocolate. The emulsified chocolate and cream remain blended, creamy, and smooth. Cream itself is also a fat-in-water emulsion, consisting of butterfat globules suspended in water. Casein, a group of proteins in milk, acts as an emulsifier in cream, helping to keep the fat and water from separating. In ganache, casein also helps to keep the chocolate and cream emulsion smooth and creamy.

巧克力,遇到奶油

要制作均匀光滑和奶油般的甘纳许,请始终在温暖的奶油中加入切碎或融化的巧克力,而不是相反。用橡胶铲搅拌,以获得无气泡的效果,非常适合松露和蛋糕釉。或让其冷却并设置,然后用搅拌将空气鞭打到Ganache中,使其更蓬松,更厚,用于蛋糕馅和糖霜。

许多经典的Ganache食谱都要求将热奶油添加到一碗切碎的巧克力中,然后搅拌直至光滑。但是,这种混合方法会导致Ganache分开,从而在Ganache中为您提供一小部分巧克力。如果您确实在切碎的巧克力中添加热奶油,那么必须让它不受干扰一分钟左右,以使巧克力在轻轻搅拌之前有机会融化。这将有助于防止微小的巧克力斑点出现在完成的甘纳奇(Ganache)中。

介意温度

巧克力对温度变化很敏感。巧克力中的可可黄油在相对较低的温度范围为87°F至91°F,低于体温下。融化的可可脂再次凝固约68°F。请注意,固体和融化巧克力之间的差异可能只有20°F。因此,最好以低热量和缓慢的热量轻轻融化巧克力。为了均匀,平稳地融化,将巧克力切成约1/2英寸平方的小均匀碎片。

Ganache has the added advantage of warm liquid cream to help envelop the chocolate in even heat as it melts. Simply stir finely chopped chocolate into the warm cream until they blend into a smooth, creamy emulsion. After mixing chopped chocolate into hot cream and stirring it until smooth, the fluid mixture may still be quite warm. Due to chocolate’s temperature sensitivity, it’s also best to allow fluid ganache to set and firm up gently and gradually (i.e. at room temperature, rather than in the fridge). As it cools, cocoa-butter crystals begin to form and the ganache begins to set. If you cool ganache too quickly, the cocoa butter doesn’t form as many crystals; when returned to room temperature quickly, cooled ganache may develop a greasy appearance. To ensure smooth, creamy ganache, cool it gradually.

为什么可可百分比很重要

巧克力酒是巧克力中的关键成分,是可可固体和可可脂的混合物。当您制作Ganache时,巧克力中巧克力酒的百分比越高,成品味道越丰富,巧克力越多。巧克力约70%,通常称为苦乐参半或黑暗,是理想的选择。可可固体超过75%,可以从奶油中吸收如此多的液体,以至于剩下足够的液体来保持所有固体和可可黄油悬浮在乳液中,从而使甘纳奇容易破裂并变得油腻。

As for cocoa butter, dark chocolate and white chocolate both contain about the same percentage, around 20 percent. But white chocolate has no cocoa solids (only milk solids), so when white chocolate melts, there are fewer solids to absorb the liquefying cocoa butter, which can make white chocolate ganache especially prone to greasiness if it’s overheated or heated too quickly.

How to fix broken ganache

If your ganache looks grainy and curdled, the emulsion has broken. The fat is separating from the watery liquid, usually because there isn’t enough liquid to hold the amount of chocolate solids suspended in the mixture. To fix broken ganache, warm the mixture over a hot water bath while whisking vigorously. If that doesn’t work, vigorously whisk in a small amount of room-temperature milk or even a liqueur. Don’t use cream to restore your ganache, because the mixture already contains too much fat to come together.

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