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Tasting Panel: Chocolate Ice Cream

精细烹饪问题87
照片:Scott Phillips
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我们从瓶子里饮醋,直接从罐子里取样蛋黄酱,然后将无味的全麦面食炒下来。因此,对于本期的品尝面板,我们决定用甜美的冰淇淋来奖励自己。毕竟是夏天,巧克力冰淇淋在冰箱中是一件好事milk shakesor冰淇淋三明治, or just to savor on its own.

但是,所有的品牌都值得藏匿吗?为了找出答案,我们要求12名优秀的烹饪工作人员参加五个广泛可用的巧克力冰淇淋品牌的盲品尝。虽然味道各不相同,但在质地方面,冰淇淋显然分为两类:乳脂状,浓密或轻便,通风,具体取决于在搅拌过程中泵入多少空气(更多的空气使蓬松的冰淇淋更蓬松)。不清楚的是我们的品尝者更喜欢哪种风格。有些人偏爱浓密的冰淇淋,而另一些则更喜欢冰淇淋。这就是为什么两者都位居前三的原因。继续阅读结果。

Top Pick

本和杰里的
$4.19 (16 oz.)

This ice cream got high scores for its perfectly smooth, dense, creamy texture (“reminds me of gelato,” wrote one taster) and its intensely rich, well-balanced bittersweet chocolate flavor.

跑步者的起床

1. Ciao Bella
$ 4.99(16盎司)
“Now we’re talking,” said one panelist about this dark and creamy ice cream. (It’s called gelato, but its ingredients are similar to those in the other ice creams we sampled. See the panel below.) Tasters liked its smooth, rich mouth-feel as well as its bittersweet flavor with hints of nuts, although a few noticed a slightly acidic note.

2. Edy’s grand
$5.79 (1.79 qt.)
虽然绝对是轻巧而通风的类别,但这种冰淇淋(在东海岸上被称为埃迪(Edy's),落基山脉(Rockies)的德雷尔(Dreyer)的西海河(Dreyer's West))并没有过分膨化。大多数品尝者都用肉桂底色赞扬其深层巧克力味,并挥之不去的苦乐参半的笔记。有些人认为这有点太甜,有点粘。

3. Breyers
$ 5.99(1.75 QT。)
这种柔软的通风冰淇淋具有不错的巧克力味,但几位小组成员发现它想要丰富。它略带粒状且冰冷的质地也使许多人失望。

4. Häagen-Dazs
$3.89 (16 oz.)
这种奶油状,宜人的冰淇淋(“融化最慢”的冰淇淋指出,一个品尝者)在风味部门中失望了很多时间。巧克力太淡淡了,有点泥土的回味。

你说冰淇淋,我说冰淇淋

我们对冰淇淋和冰淇淋之间的区别感到好奇,因此我们向Il Laboratorio del Gelato老板Jon Snyder提出了一个问题。事实证明没有明显的差异。他说:“以我的方式看,冰淇淋是意大利语冰淇淋的话。”没有一种制作冰淇淋的方法,就像没有一种制作冰淇淋的方法一样。例如,在意大利的南部,冰淇淋往往更叶,而在北部,冰淇淋却更加奶油,还有更多的蛋黄。

也就是说,有一些一般规则适用。冰淇淋往往比冰淇淋少奶油和更多的牛奶,因此它具有浓密的质地,因为将空气搅拌少(奶油比牛奶含有更多的空气)。此外,冰淇淋的搅拌速度要慢,并且在温度略高的温度下,冰淇淋特别光滑和奶油。蛋黄可以在冰淇淋和冰淇淋中使用。

Splurge

In a league of its own

Our panel’s top ice creams are fine everyday treats, and they’d make tasty milk shakes, too, but if you’re looking for something truly special, you’ll want Il Laboratorio del Gelato’s dark chocolate ice cream in your freezer. To say that it’s smooth and creamy is almost an understatement. This ice cream is luxuriously rich and silky—oh, so silky—like the deepest, richest chocolate mousse with an intense, perfectly bittersweet chocolate flavor that will knock your socks off.
Il Laboratorio del Gelato冰淇淋可在纽约市的某些商店或通过邮购提供Laboratoriodelgelato.com($60 for four 18-ounce containers, plus shipping).

去,有机!

绿色和黑色是favori有机黑巧克力te here at Fine Cooking. So when we found out the company had plans to launch Green & Black’s organic chocolate ice cream, we couldn’t wait to taste it. This is a dense, rich, satisfying ice cream with a powerful dark-chocolate flavor and a big bittersweet finish, just like its 70% chocolate bars. Green & Black’s organic chocolate ice cream is available at Whole Foods Markets and other specialty food stores for $4.49 a pint.

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