Preparation

• Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F. Coat a shallow 5- to 6-cup gratin dish with the butter.

  Fill a 5- to 6-quart pot three-quarters full with water, add 2 tsp. salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Trim the greens of their lower stems and submerge the leaves in a large bowl of water, swishing to release any grit. Transfer directly to the boiling water and cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste a leaf after 3 minutes; if it’s still tough or stiff, cook for 1 or 2 minutes more. Drain and spread the greens out on a rimmed baking sheet lined with a clean dishtowel to steam and release moisture, 10 to 15 minutes. Use the dishtowel to gently wring the greens and get rid of any remaining moisture.

  In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, 3 Tbs. of the Parmigiano, and a pinch of salt.

  In a 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the cream and garlic to a boil, about 5 minutes. As soon as the cream has come to a vigorous boil (but before it boils over), remove the pan from the heat and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Add the lemon zest and season with 1/4 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper. Stir well and remove the garlic cloves.

  绿党转移到砧板切them coarsely. Put them in a large mixing bowl and add the remaining 1/4 cup Parmigiano and the goat cheese. Using your fingers, mix well. Spread the mixture in the prepared gratin dish. Pour on the cream and stir gently with a spoon to distribute evenly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top the gratin evenly with the breadcrumbs. (There will be a lot of liquid; some of the crumbs will dissolve in it. The liquid will reduce in the oven and the top crumbs will get crisp.)

  Bake the gratin until the crumbs are browned and the liquid has reduced below the crumb level (there will be a brown ring around the edge of the gratin), about 30 minutes. Serve warm.