Preparation

• Boil the whole unpeeled potatoes in generously salted water until fork-tender, 20 to 30 minutes., depending on size. As soon as you can handle the potatoes but while they’re still warm, slice them just under 1/2 inch thick with a very sharp knife.
• In a small saucepan over medium heat, boil the wine until it’s reduced by half. (If using vinegar, don’t cook it.) Sprinkle the salt, white pepper, and hot reduced wine (or the vinegar) over the warm potatoes; toss gently. Add the olive oil, tossing just until combined, and then add the shallots and scallions. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve at room temperature.

Variations on this potato salad are endless, but here are a few that I especially like. Follow the basic recipe above — just omit the scallions and substitute one of these combinations:

Chopped tomato, diced crisped bacon, and hard-cooked egg

Chopped anchovies and sliced roasted red peppers

Chopped olives, minced garlic, and cubed chicken or turkey

Lemon juice, caviar, crème fraîche, and snipped chives

Paprika, capers, and smoked salmon (To avoid cooking the salmon, don’t add it until the salad is at room temperature.)